Steering Wheel Refurb
Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 11:49 am
Ah, what to do about that old stock wooden 124 steering wheel?
I've frankly gone back on forth on this for as long as I've owned my car. Why I even have a leather wrapped Momo that I never installed! But there is something about the mahogany wheel that came on the car that appeals to me. (And yes, mine is mahogany. I know in some later years they seemed to go over to plastic of the same color.) For one is its classic looks. Dated for sure, but no more so than the rest of the car. That is its charm.
The skinniness I can deal with. On long drives I simply do what sportscar drivers always did 'back when': Wear driving gloves. But while the wood on mine looks pretty much like new (amazingly so!) - the black, drilled, metal spokes have gotten rusty for the umteenth time despite being painted and repainted.
This time, however, I approached the refinishing of the metal differently. Instead of again trying to fight the rust I decided to try working with it. So instead of paint I used RT16A - a latex-based material that chemically binds with the oxide in rust - turning into a dense, tough, black surface.
I've used RT16A before and been very impressed with its strength. Indeed, as the instructions say, if you spill or splatter it you better remove it while it is still wet. Once hardened it is almost impossible to get off.
RT16A is thick. A typical two-coat layer is a good 3 or 4 mils thick. And depending on how it is applied it can be either smooth or slightly textured. I chose the later using a small but thick bristled brush to apply it, carefully keeping all finish strokes running lengthwise down the spoke. This, I thought, would integrate in well with the natural grain of the wood which clearly shows through the heavy marine varnish Fiat apparently used to finish it. Too, it would cover over the less than perfectly smooth surface of the metal which had 32 years worth of corrosion.
RT16A goes on creamy white. Then, due to its contact with the oxides in any rust present, it blackens and turns hard.
Two coats are typically needed with the 2nd being applied within about twenty minutes. After that the sealing is so complete that the hardening and blackening may not occur do to lack of oxide exposure.
The job was simple and reasonably quick. I removed the horn button and surround so I could coat the metal right up to (and under) it. The edge adjacent to the wood I just 'cut' carefully by hand. Not at all difficult. Care was of course taken to avoid any splatter.
So how did it turn out? You can decide for yourself. Suffice it to say that I am well pleased.
-don
I've frankly gone back on forth on this for as long as I've owned my car. Why I even have a leather wrapped Momo that I never installed! But there is something about the mahogany wheel that came on the car that appeals to me. (And yes, mine is mahogany. I know in some later years they seemed to go over to plastic of the same color.) For one is its classic looks. Dated for sure, but no more so than the rest of the car. That is its charm.
The skinniness I can deal with. On long drives I simply do what sportscar drivers always did 'back when': Wear driving gloves. But while the wood on mine looks pretty much like new (amazingly so!) - the black, drilled, metal spokes have gotten rusty for the umteenth time despite being painted and repainted.
This time, however, I approached the refinishing of the metal differently. Instead of again trying to fight the rust I decided to try working with it. So instead of paint I used RT16A - a latex-based material that chemically binds with the oxide in rust - turning into a dense, tough, black surface.
I've used RT16A before and been very impressed with its strength. Indeed, as the instructions say, if you spill or splatter it you better remove it while it is still wet. Once hardened it is almost impossible to get off.
RT16A is thick. A typical two-coat layer is a good 3 or 4 mils thick. And depending on how it is applied it can be either smooth or slightly textured. I chose the later using a small but thick bristled brush to apply it, carefully keeping all finish strokes running lengthwise down the spoke. This, I thought, would integrate in well with the natural grain of the wood which clearly shows through the heavy marine varnish Fiat apparently used to finish it. Too, it would cover over the less than perfectly smooth surface of the metal which had 32 years worth of corrosion.
RT16A goes on creamy white. Then, due to its contact with the oxides in any rust present, it blackens and turns hard.
Two coats are typically needed with the 2nd being applied within about twenty minutes. After that the sealing is so complete that the hardening and blackening may not occur do to lack of oxide exposure.
The job was simple and reasonably quick. I removed the horn button and surround so I could coat the metal right up to (and under) it. The edge adjacent to the wood I just 'cut' carefully by hand. Not at all difficult. Care was of course taken to avoid any splatter.
So how did it turn out? You can decide for yourself. Suffice it to say that I am well pleased.
-don
