PHOTO OF 2.0L FI MOTOR READY FOR DYNO

[sptcoupe]

Here is a photo of the 2.0L ready for the dyno. The car is in the paint shop, and the final dyno runs will be after that.

[manoa matt]

Nice work. I like the intake phlenum, especially the plexi window. Is there a filter in the phlenum, or in the grill area?

[azygoustoyou]

Looks pretty cool. Got any more pics? Is that a 124?

[sptcoupe]

The filter is mounted in the front valance area, low down and in front of the radiator. The car is a BC 124 coupe.

Here is a photo without the air box, when we were just fitting everything up.

[sptcoupe]

Sorry. Forgot the car pic.

[mdrburchette]

You've been promising this dyno run for a month now. Is it ready yet?

[kmead]

Looks great. Both inside and out. Most envious. What is the paint code for that yellow out of curiosity? Many thanks.

[sptcoupe]

It has been to the Dyno twice.

The first time it blew the gasket between the oil filter housing and the block after just two runs, and I mean BLEW! Parts of the gasket were outside the engine! So, a tow home and the end of that dyno day, and a partial tear down to check for damage. Turns out that even tho the gauge did not indicate it, we had super high pressure caused by a washer under the pressure relief valve (oops). A new sending unit fixed the false readnigs, and we now have a solid 75 lbs at the break over point.

We got it back on the dyno last Friday for the whole day. After a few runs with no adjustments, we could sense that it was starved for air above about 4500 rpms, so we took the top of the air box off. Presto, an 11.3 HP gain! Damn!. Turns out the machine shop did some sort of fancy calculation to figure out the total volume of the box's interior, and since it THEORETICALLY had 3 times as much as was needed for the engine to breath, they made the horns taller and only left 26mm over the horns, instead of the 40mm we specified. I have seen this hundreds of times on IDF cars, and no matter what the formulas tell you, if you don't have at least as much room over the horns as the diameter of the horns, the damn air column will not build properly and you will not get the total power available from that air pump we call a motor! Blast!

So we decided to drive on without the top on the box and adjust the AFR, the ignition timing and the cam timing. So, the top off the box got an immediate addtional 11.3 HP. The AFR, another 3-4. The ignition timing, another 4 HP. Then we got a big jump with the intake cam - 10 HP! The exhaust side got us another 3-4.

Then, when we were ready to go back and really fine tune it, it started to run really badly. We had lost the # 1 & 2 clyinders from idle to about 4000 rpms, and after that it was missing and making no power. Fearing the worst, we did a compression test, then a leak down test, changed plugs, did a manifold leak test, and found nothing! We ate some pizza, cursed and scratched our heads, figured we had a hard-to-detect head gasket leak, or bad ignition pack tower, or had run the valves into the pistons, or valves into valves. The shop owner wanted to go home. We quit.

With the light of day Monday, it turned out that the damn inter-TB linkage had come loose and let the TBs get out of synch! The # 1 & 2 were not opening at the same rate as the # 3 & 4. Double damn! A few minutes with the Synchrometer and a screw driver was all it took to fix it.

Rather than wait for the new and shorter air horns to get made, or keep tuning without the air box top on, we decided to get it into the paint shop while the horns are being forged, which is where she is now.

Since there is a large pool of people trying to win a case of beer by having the closest guess as to the max rear wheel HP (yes Denise, I have your number!), I can't let that number out yet. I can say that we have 144 ft lbs of torque at 4600 rpms (thank you, Mark, for those "snakes" headers!). I can also say that the first two runs with no adjustments and the air box top on were in the 120s. We only ran her to 7500 rpms, as the power was in at 7100 -7200

All those aluminum parts, lightening and balancing really paid off, as this 2.0L revs faster than any engine I have ever done, and it sounds beautiful at full song. I think it will be real sweet and real strong. But we'll know for sure when she is back on the dyno with the new horns fitted and the top on the air box. Three weeks.

The paint color is 1996 Ford Mustang Chrome Yellow. I don't have the code handy.

[kmead]

Great info. The name of the color is sufficient. Thanks! Look forward to the results.

[mdrburchette]

I'll be too old to drink the beer at the rate you're going, Jeff. Hey, I know! Just bring it to FFO 2010. I'll even share it with you!

[azygoustoyou]

It would be cool if you goyt the camera out and made a video for us when you dyno it again so we can hear that beast roar

[sptcoupe]

Denise - you have to win the pool first . And so you know, the Houston bunch has begun serious planning for a caravan opf Texas cars to FFO, so I will be there with the Coupe, and I'm looking for drivers for the spider and the sedan. So I have a better idea - come to Texas, we'll drink the beer, and you can drive one of cars to FFO!

Good idea about the video on the next dyno day. I'll do that. It sounds way different from carbs (which I love) - more like a ripping sound. Whatever the hell that means.....

[mdrburchette]

According to my calculations and the numbers you've alluded to, I've got the case in the bag.
Wish I could go down and drive a car up but I've got another business to run and it's taking up my free time.

[ventura ace]

Congrats on the progress, Jeff. Sounds like you're about there.

Alvon

[nettxtra]

Nice engine

A small question from a newbie: could such an air box be used on 2x40 weber?

Carburetors will then get fresh cold air instead of warm.