Progress and Problems with the 77 w/ carb pix

[ga.spyder]

I got to put in several hours with the 77 today.Yep...after rushing home from FFO,our material for work didnt come in this morning!I installed my pulley,thanks John,and ran the car for a while.She starts right up,shifts well and handles and stops just fine.The clutch was engaging right on the floor ,so I adjusted it to where it is to my liking.Also,adjusted the e-brake and fixed 2 fuel leaks by the tank.Car runs at 190 deg. and fan comes on like it should All good and progress was made.
Now...the carb.As carbs go,I am a huge fan of fuel injection! My idle is very erratic.It can go from 2000 rpm to a stall in a moment.It will not hold a consistent idle,and even surges a little when underway. Although performance is good,it sometimes hits a dead spot when giving full throttle from low rpm.Any ideas on a diagnosis would be welcome.I am not familiar with the carb,so keep it simple!
The alt. has an incorrect mounting(pivot) bolt,which makes it wobble a bit.I think this contributed to my pulley problem.Ralph is sending me a mounting bolt ,so it will be corrected.The red light in the bottom of the tach comes on above 3000 rpm.I think this is the charge light? Could also be a problem caused by the mounting,I wont drive it again until the alt is mounted correctly.
Thanks for any input that may help me sort her out.My wife drove it today and she is estatic.Went and picked her 77 year old mom and took her for a cruise.All in all the car is really solid ,just in need of tweaking and TLC.
Craig

[manoa matt]

Finding out something is better than you originally thought is always satisfying.

Make sure every screw and hold down nut on the carb is tight. Have you replaced the fuel filter yet? get a clear one (Fram P-12) so you can see whats going on with the gas, the fuel pump, and if the tank is rusty. Take out the idle solenoid, remove the jet and make sure it is clear. Check all the hoses too.

Those symptoms could also be ignition related. Do you know the points gap, dwell, timing? Switch it to single points.

You can learn a lot from looking at the plugs and comparing them.

[baltobernie]

The charge lamp comes on above 3000 RPM If that's not a typo, the wobbly alternator mount you've described may be ready to let go

[ga.spyder]

Not a typo,Bernie.It stays off until 2500 to 3000 rpm,comes on above that.I suspected the mount and I am not going to drive it until I get the proper mounting hardware.It's amazing what you find when you buy someone elses project! I am hoping someone has a link to a weber page.I have a Haynes manual but it doesnt give much info.

[ga.spyder]

Got home today and put on a new air and fuel filter.I took a few carb pix.I know ,I know it is dirty.Take a look and see if you can spot glaring problems.There are several plugged vac. lines.Also, there is a fitting below the fuel filter and one between the carb and the cam cover that have no lines connected at all.I guess the solenoid w/ the wire is the idle sol. that Matt spoke of?I hate when something doesnt run right Also,is this a 32 ADFA? DHEV? IGFA,DMV,R2D2.......
Craig

[swede]

First picture from the top:
Get a clear fuel filter so you can see when its filling up with rust and other crap, also put one filter directly on the fuel tank it self so you don’t get all crap I the fuel pump.

Second picture from the top:
Can you see if there is fuel coming out of the accelerating membrane that is located to the left of the low idling solenoid (one with the cable). The engine will run uneven if the membrane is cracked, the cracks will let air leak thru.

I think you probably need to take the carburetor apart and clean the whole thing it might already be filled with crap if you have been running without fuel filter.

Use a small propane can and spray around the carburetor when the engine is running to find leaks , the rpm will increase if there is a leak.

[mbouse]

get rid of that one way valve, and while you are at it, replace any and all of that braided cotton covered fuel line. that cotton braiding is just hiding 32 year old rubber.... which should have been changed out 27 years ago.

if you put in a clear fuel filter, make sure it is a glass bowl/cylinder and not the plastic kind.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks guys...keep em' coming!The parts store was out of glass/clear filter so I bought this one temporarily.Mike,what is the one way valve? Good tip,Swede re. the propane.The car hasnt been running w/o a filter.Manoamatt sent me a schematic for the carb,which should help.Thanks,Matt.
Craig

[mbouse]

picture #1 there is a connector between the rubber and the cotton braided hose on the return line. that is a one way valve. trash that one way valve and the cotton braided hose.

your mother in law liked her ride? that's always a good thing.

[manoa matt]

Mike, Have you experienced any problems with that one way valve? Its simply a one way/check valve for the return line, and twice filtered gas is the only thing going through it, so I don't see how it could clog up.

Wallyworld has a good deal on the Fram P-12 filters, about half the price of auto parts stores. I've never had a problem with them being plastic, and actually prefer them over the metal ones. You know exactly the condition of the filter element and when to change it. Even with ethenol fuel and about a year of use the used plastic filter housing are still plenty strong. I will however be changing over to a glass bowl Filter King pressure regulator/fuel filter in the near future.

It looks like the previous owner soldered up your ported vacuum source. If you ever want to run the 79-85 electronic distributor you will need to drill out that port and insert a tube fitting.

Replace any rubber vacuum caps with vinyl, they hold up to the heat cycles better. Make sure they fit snug!

Hooking up the fast idle system will stop the popping in the exhaust while decelerating and going down hills.

[digitech]

Craig, if you need a hand, I'm not that far from you and can come out on a Sat./Sun.