1800 Intake Manifold Myth!

[katsi]

Without pulling the motor, replacing a 79 intake manifold wit one from an 1800 is IN FU%%ING POSSIBLE!!!! Look, first off, one starts off very excited and the smog garb kinda just snaps off - so far so good . Then comes the smog equipment and hoses - all is fine . Then one comes to unbolting the intake manifold. At first, the small spaces, where the bolts live, in between the intake manifold looks troublesome. A 13 MM monkey wrench and a lot of really short strokes and the two pop out - giving you HOPE! Then comes the one under the manifold clostest to the front of the motor. Do I have to remove the belt? No, you can just manuver the 13 mm monkey inbetween the belt and use you fingers as eyes and make even shorter strokes to remov that one. Then comes the bolt inderneith - that one really tries you patience. A good flex extension and some patience with a 13 mm on the end and in about an hour, you will get that one off too. Then comes the last two - GOTCH YA!! Not going to come off

How does one get those last two bolts off??

One looks as if it resides underneith coral at the beach with all those smog nipples sticking out.

Has anyone really done this without pulling the motor???

[So Cal Mark]

swivel sockets and the right length extensions. You can't do brain surgery with a rock and stick. Well, you can, but you end up with results like our governator

[MNspiderman]

the way i tackeled the problem was I showed my kids the bolts to take off, I proceded to go into the house and watch tv. But I told my kids don't come in until its done. So it went pretty easy for me. They did it, didn't break anything and I was happy.

[mbouse]

i totally understand your frustration. with me, on my first time of removing an intake manifold from an '80... it was the seventh bolt, hidden under the timing belt cover. i did not realize that bolt existed,and was so frustrated that i was ready to grab a saws all. fortunately, a friend called me and talked me down several stress levels.

it can be done! i have done this swap several times since then using a series of 13mm wrenches, sockets and swivel joints. 3/8" ratchet and extensions as well.

take a deep breath, and know you can do it too. then, just be patient and plod away.

[katsi]

Mike, thanks for the calming advice but, here is onother question. I seems that their is not enough clearance to slide the maniforl off if I ever get the final two bolts off. The brake booster sits about 1/2 inch away from the manifold and the bolts stick out of the manifold about 1/2 inch - not to mention the thickness of the manifold and how far it needs to come out just to clear the bolts on the engine block.

Also, I thought about removing the brake booster but the problem seems to exist in the opposite way being that it won't clear the manifold. And, even if it does, I will have to remove the master cylinder (which I have), clutch cable and speedometer cable to get the booster out because these two cables (on mine) wrap in front of the booster very tightly. Actulally, the speedometer cable is not the problem so much as the clutch cable. Also, I have tried to slide the clutch cable in between the manifold and booster but the cable is much thicker than the clearance between the booster and manifold.

Any advice? I really don't know what to do right now.

Finally, if I do remove the booster is my peddle assembly just going to get all F'd up as it seems to be mounted to the booster. AND, if I do have to do that is the clutch cable going to be a major pain in the ass?

Extreemly frustrating stuff.

[racydave]

I did mine a while back, but it seems that you can just un-bolt the M/Cyl ( not brake lines) and set slightly aside to gain the adaquet clearance. I made a L bracket to retain the oil dip stick to the block at the hole left for the EGR passage. Also its the BEST time to address the oil separator and hoses while the intake is off. You also wanna dis-connect the battery so you can't ground out against the starter or alternator.

[mbouse]

about three weeks ago, i removed an intake/carb assembly and replaced with a different assembly... with zero consideration to the brake items.

having the carb off the intake would have created some more room, but i didn't feel the need for the extra space. but, if it makes you feel better, removal of the carb before tackling the intake might create the additional room you need.

i'll agree that the '79 & '80 intakes are quite a bit larger than the 1800 series..but they will come off the car w/out wrestling with the m/c or booster.

maybe it's just me, but i just don't see that much clearance trouble.

[danaspider]

Mark and Mike are correct. It is all about the extensions and taking a calm approach. I did mine a couple of years ago, and never thought of removing the brake booster. Once you get the nuts off you will have a bit of issue at the front. But just manuver the intake around and it will come off.

New 1800 will be easy once you get there. Just remember to block the exhaust port coming acroos the front and a new bracket for the dip stick.

It can be done without removing engine and brake booster.

[azygoustoyou]

I hope you get that thing off. I was thinking of leaving mine off ('78 1800) and putting it on after I install the engine back in the car. I might have to rethink it if your having a hell of a time. I have my eng out . I had it off within five min. GOOD LUCK

[katsi]

Something juse dawned on me so let me ask all you guys this question. Is you manifold secured to the engine by intake bolts that go into the engine block?

Mine does NOT!!

Mine has threaded bolts comming out of the engine block and then a washer and nut hold the intake manifold in place. But, one WAS a bolt that went into the engine block (I thought that was a little funny and didn't really think about it untill just now). I can see where you would not have any clearance problems if "Bolts came out" and then the whole thing just fell free from the engine block. But, mine has mounting studs sticking out of the block so the manifold needs to be backed off about an inch and a half to clear those studs inorder to be removed. The motor was rebuilt by a PO so maybe he did something funny.

[azygoustoyou]

Mine has four studs that hold it on.

[katsi]

That was extreemly helpfull, Thanks. I guess I will try to wiggle that monkey out without removing the brake booster. By the way, I like that. Kinda like a brand new tractor. Not poking fun, I like it.

[So Cal Mark]

boy, when you paint a motor, you really paint a motor

[mbouse]

brady, you better find those two center studs, or you are gonna leak coolant when you put that intake back on.

[manoa matt]

The intake and exhaust manifolds were designed to be attached to the head with studs and nuts. Using bolts seams like a good idea and will make removal and installation easier, but there are a few things to consider. Several of the studs penetrate into either coolant or oil passages. If replaced with a bolt it is more likely to weep or spew fluid than the stud.

The main reason is that with a stud installed in the head there is plenty of thread engagement. The clamping force of the manifold to the head is taken by the nut on the end of the stud. With the stud and nut being steel there is a greatly reduced chance of stripping threads, and if you do, its the threads on the stud or nut which can be replaced easily.

If you use bolts you are relying on the threads in the aluminum head to hold the steel bolt. If something is going to strip its going to be the threads in the alumimum head, which is not easily fixed without removing the head and taking it to a machine shop. Also the stud and nut can exert a greater clamping force than the bolt alone.

Doing things the right way is never easy, doing them the wrong way is.