Front End Rebuild - Help Needed Please

[Hutch]

Well I am finally installing all the new parts on my 77 124 Spider. I bought new upper and lower control arms (with bushings and ball joints), inner and outer tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves and clamps, and center link. I got the passenger side control arms installed along with the spring (what fun). When I moved to the driver side the first thing I did was install the upper control arm. I immediately noticed that there was a lot of slop between the bolt and the shock tower. There is so much play that I can move the control arm approximately .125 inch front to rear and approximately .125 inch left and right (driver side to passenger side). The front to rear doesn't really concern me as that will be taken up by tightening the bolt. The left to right really concerns me. I talked to the gentlemen at Vick's and they were not familiar with this issue. It seems as if the holes in the shock tower where the bolt goes through have become enlarged. Any idea what my options are here? Before I started this project the front end made the occasional banging noise and I'm starting to think this may be the cause.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading!

[htchevyii]

Does the hole look wallowed out? Maybe you can insert a sleeve if it is?

[azygoustoyou]

If the hole is enlarged, maybe you could weld a thick washer to the top to center the bolt.

[Hutch]

It's hard to tell by looking at the hole if it is enlarged. If that is the case (and it sure seems like it is) then the two options are to make the hole smaller or to make the bolt larger. I was wondering if some type of sleeve was available. I really like the washer idea. That would take up the front to rear slop as well as the side to side slop.

[manoa matt]

There should be a sleeve in there. You will be able to see it if you look in the upper shock mounting hole in the engine bay. If it does not have a sleeve, then it needs one. Without the sleeve the shock tower/spring perch will start to crush when you tighten the "A" arm pivot bolt.

[So Cal Mark]

if you weld a washer over the hole, the bushings will have to be pushed out of the control arms to the point that they aren't tight in the control arms. They are a tapered fit

[Hutch]

The sleeve that keeps the shock tower from crushing is in there. Here is a pic of what I am going to try tomorrow. Basically I made my own "washers". These give me more control over the hole diameter and more room for the welds. There seems to be enough front to rear slop that the combined thickness of these two plates should make up for that, and the smaller holes remove the side to side slop. Wish me luck and thanks for the help. (Sorry for the lousy picture)

[manoa matt]

I think I would have opted for some sort of bushing or shim that goes in the space between the existing tube and bolt. No welding. The front to back play should be taken up when you assemble it and tighten the bolt. Since you have so much play in each direction the trick is going to be getting those washers welded in the right locations so the car can still be aligned.

[Hutch]

I hear ya Matt and I agree. The problem is finding a bushing that will work. Maybe someone will chime in with a source. If I go the other route my plan is to use the old bolt to hold the plates in position when I weld them in so that they are lined up.

[So Cal Mark]

are both ends of the hole the same size? Have you measured the diameter of the hole?

[Hutch]

The whole towards the rear of the car seems sloppier than the other. I have not measured them.