Help me spend money - Front end rebuild time.

[Hutch]

OK, I have been pricing around for the parts to rebuild my front end. What I am looking at is tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves, tie rod clamps, center link, upper and lower control arms with ball joints. I may also put 4 KYB gas shocks on. The other things I am considering, but don't think are mandatory, are 4 new coil springs (1" shorter, 15% stiffer), steering idler, and maybe stainless steel brake hoses. The prices at the places I have checked are all pretty close.

My questions for you good folks are:

1. Are some vendor's parts "better" than others? In other words, is there a range of quality in these types of parts?
2. Any suggestions for what parts I should be buying? Should I get the shorter springs or will I hate myself for it?
3. Anything I am missing?

Thanks, I appreciate any and all feedback!!

Mark

[So Cal Mark]

I'd plan on at least servicing the idler and checking the oil level in the steering gear box

[htchevyii]

The lower ball joints are the most failure prone replacement part. There are some bad ones out there and I think some of the ones that have failed were the ones on new arms. http://www.mirafiori.com/~thad/balljoints/bj.html

[pope]

If your thinking of KYB shocks, get the GR-2 NOT the gas-adjust (white) ones. The gas-adjust ones are too strong for the Spider. They will be tap dancing on the hood of the engine compartment in no time.

[mdrburchette]

Since you're going to have so much off the car, might as well consider doing a brake job and repack/replace the wheel bearings. Also check and consider replacing the brake hoses. Gosh, that job's so fun I wish I were closer!

[racydave]

Youll want to inspect the brake valve at the rear also, prone to seize! Deleted mine with no adverse affects. If so, PM me! It sounds like you are making progress, cant wait to see!

[ga.spyder]

Hey Mark ,
I have been putting together my parts for a year to do the full rebuild this winter.I have new center link,tie rods,ball joints ,bushings,and bearings w/nuts.Decided against the s.s. lines,purely for financial reasons.The lower springs are a popular mod,but I was worried about clearance on my 15'' wheels.Scroll down ,and there is a post about the early model springs to lower the cars.Sam(sjmst?) has a set for sale cheap.I put the KYB GR-2 shocks on last year.Very happy with them and you cant beat the price.Good luck
Craig

[kristoj]

Hey Mark,

I did this exact rebuild on my car last year. I have some pictures posted in the link below my signature. The only thing I did not replace was the tie rod sleeves, as there was nothing wrong with my existing ones. I replace the bushings on the front stabilizer bars as well. I stuck with my stock springs and I installed four of the KYB GR-2s. I also replaced the brake hoses and rotors and calipers as part of another project a year earlier. Denise is right about repacking the front wheel bearings as you remove them anyway to get the control arms off. And as Mark suggested, check the oil level in the steering box -- mine was empty . Getting the front springs back in can be a challenge, but it can be done. My advice would be to send them out and have them compressed and banded at a local suspension shop before re-installing. They usually charge $25-$35 for the service. I can tell you that rebuilding the front end made a noticable difference in the steering response and handling. 25+ year old rubber control arm bushings are generally not a good thing. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. I bought most of my suspension parts from Vick Auto.

[Hutch]

Folks

Thanks for all of the replies and advice (and Merry Christmas too!). I really appreciate it. So it appears that there is no real quality difference in these parts as long as I go with one of the major suppliers (Vick's, IAP, etc)? I am adding packing/replacing the wheel bearings to the list. I am also going to plan on having the springs compressed and banded (thanks for the suggestion). I will also plan to replace the anti-sway bar rubber as well. I will most likely order the parts next week and hopefully have some decent (read not below freezing) weather in the next month or two.

Thanks again to everyone.
Mark

[kristoj]

I would not recommend replacing the wheel bearings unless they show unusual wear. The inner bearings are pretty expensive and the aftermarket ones have known to be of a lesser quality than the original Fiat parts. One of my outer bearings did in fact show some serious wear, so I replaced both outside bearings. I was able to source high-quality, Timken bearings from my local Autozone store (not in stock, but had them in two days). The outer bearings are relatively inexpensive.

[SpiderHead]

Mark!

Hats off brother!

You certainly "get it"'

Fiats are far less about the engine, and are far more about the fact that they don't really need to slow down so much around a corner..

The best performance "mods" most people could make to thier cars is to get the front end back to original spec. There are some improvements that could be made here, but most drivers will never exceed the original spec handling capabilities around a track.

That said, faster laps come from better cornering faaaaaar cheaper than they do from more HP..... lol.

If I had a dollar for every chump that tried to make a fiat into a drag racing champ, I would have a bunch of dollars. like maybe more than I would want to sit on.. lol

But If I saw any fiat that was a better car after those changes were made.... and you handed me a dollar for each one that was actually better... I couldn't buy a cup of coffee with that money.

lol



-Ryan

[mdrburchette]

I would not recommend replacing the wheel bearings unless they show unusual wear. The inner bearings are pretty expensive and the aftermarket ones have known to be of a lesser quality than the original Fiat parts. One of my outer bearings did in fact show some serious wear, so I replaced both outside bearings. I was able to source high-quality, Timken bearings from my local Autozone store (not in stock, but had them in two days). The outer bearings are relatively inexpensive.

My bearings had a rough spot in them when I cleaned and checked them. I was concerned about replacement bearings not being as good as original so when they came in from Vick's or IAP (can't remember) I was glad to see they were SKF bearings.

[ga.spyder]

Bruces Parts Bin also, now has the SKF bearings.I ordered them just before Xmas.They are a little pricier than the catalog price,though.I decided to change them even though my old ones seem in good shape.I will keep the originals for spares.Denise ,as soon as they arrive I will send them to you...I know how you love to pack bearings!
Craig

[mdrburchette]

Oh THANK YOU Craig! This time I'll do it without gloves.

[So Cal Mark]

just a suggestion; don't store your used bearings dry or they will rust.