Steering overhaul straight forward?

[nicktheviking]

Q: What did the pirate say, when he put a steering wheel in his pants?

A: Arrrrr, it's drivin' me nuts!

I just ordered replacement centerlink, sleeves, tie rod ends and clamps. Is the job pretty straight forward? Should I assemble the arms prior to installing or after everything is bolted in.

I saw the little blurb on IAP about making sure the ends don't bind when the suspension is in "full drop."

[ventura ace]

Getting all the old ball joints apart is the toughest part, unless you have the proper tool. I was able to find a couple of free rental tools from Autozone to get mine apart.

Be sure to measure the existing links as accurately as possible before disturbing the adjustment, then set the replacement links as close to the same measurement as good as you can. When threading the tie rod ends into the sleeve be sure to thread both ends an equal amount. Look at how much clearance you have between the clamps and other surrounding parts as the steering moves throughout its entire range of motion. I needed to position the clamps in a certain direction to avoid hitting the exhaust down pipe on my car.

If the new parts are put back in with close to the same lengths as the old parts, you should be able to drive your car to get it alligned when you are finished.

Alvon

[nicktheviking]

Getting all the old ball joints apart is the toughest part, unless you have the proper tool. I was able to find a couple of free rental tools from Autozone to get mine apart.

Be sure to measure the existing links as accurately as possible before disturbing the adjustment, then set the replacement links as close to the same measurement as good as you can. When threading the tie rod ends into the sleeve be sure to thread both ends an equal amount. Look at how much clearance you have between the clamps and other surrounding parts as the steering moves throughout its entire range of motion. I needed to position the clamps in a certain direction to avoid hitting the exhaust down pipe on my car.

If the new parts are put back in with close to the same lengths as the old parts, you should be able to drive your car to get it alligned when you are finished.

Alvon

When you say taking the ball joints apart, I'm assuming you mean from the steering knuckle/centerlink? I'll be renting a ball joint separator from kragen.

[engineerted]

Yes, like others have said, with the right tools. Crap, can't find the link to that cheep tie rod tool ($14) You may have to do a search on this site. I bought one, the best $14 spent. Do you own an impact gun and 2ft of extensions? If so this is the best to run down the nuts on those new ball joints, no worries about spinning the ball while tightening the nuts. Also make shure you grease the joints, get the needle attachment for the greas gun.

Ted

[mbouse]

Auto Zone is a great place to "rent" tools you infrequently need. 100% of your deposit is refunded, and the deposit is a reasonable sum.

i've read from Denise and others that the IAP ball joint remover is worth the money... their # 35796 lists for $69.50... though i have not used it.

[nicktheviking]

Anyone know how good those screw-type ball joint removers work as compared to pickle forks?

[pope]

I have the ball joint fork, but never used it when I took all the front suspension and steering parts off recently. A little PB Blaster in the joint and a good wack with a hammer on the side of the metal joint and they all came off. Easier than using the fork I used last time I did them.

[mdrburchette]

Auto Zone is a great place to "rent" tools you infrequently need. 100% of your deposit is refunded, and the deposit is a reasonable sum.

i've read from Denise and others that the IAP ball joint remover is worth the money... their # 35796 lists for $69.50... though i have not used it.

The tool I bought was the $14 tool Ted was talking about. It was great for separating the tie rods and centerlink. I used a pickle fork for the ball joints since I was replacing them anyway.
But you guys have me worried. If the ball joints are sealed, shouldn't they have grease in them already? I think my top ball joints didn't have a zirk fitting but my lower ones did.