Rear brake Question

[RDSPYDR]

Stupity set in when I started on the brakes. I decided since the calipers were functioning correctly to replace all the rubber on the braking system to include the seals on the calipers, but in my haste to start the job I pull the pads off and all associated hardware. I forgot to look at the brake set up before disassembly, both of my mauals ( Brookland / OEM Manual ) don't really give a clear picture of where the two metal clips are supposed to go ( they actually fell into my hand in disaasembly ).

Where do they go ? I would like to finish assmbly and bleeding tonight after work.

Thanks

[mbouse]

are you talking about the anti-rattle clips? they go on the caliper and push on the long side of the pad when installed.

[So Cal Mark]

there are two different styles of anti rattle clips; one goes on the end of the pad, the other goes under the pad on the caliper bracket

[RDSPYDR]

I believe that is them. They are part of the kit that comes from IAP item number 8206.

Thanks

[nicktheviking]

Here's a picture, hope this helps.

[manoa matt]

I hope these pictures help. I posted them last year for a somewhat related topic. The pictures are of front calipers, but they mount the same as the rears.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/859605107/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/859605061/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/859605049/

[RDSPYDR]

Thanks the pics worked great. While trying to replace the rubber lines on the rear, it became evident that the rear meatl lines where in need of replacement. I just wish whoever worked on the brakes last hadn't rounded the fittings, what a pain in the ..... Tried the local guys, but nada. looking to try one more out of the way place tomorrow before having to order.

Oh well the life of a 27 year old car.

[RDSPYDR]

Quick update - Had to order the complete set of brake lines. I will only replace what I need at the moment, and complete the rest this winter.

Thanks again for the help.

[RDSPYDR]

Got another puzzle with the brakes.

I power bleed the system and went through approx two quarts of fluid before all the air was out, The pedal still doesn't feel solid and when I pulled up the emergency brake the RR stopped the axle from turning but the LR is still spinning freely.

When I put the new pads on rear, I made sure the mark on the piston is where they should have been and I turned the pistons in with a file as the manual stated.

I am starting to think that that caliper is bad or maybe the master cylinder ?

Thanks

[So Cal Mark]

both rear brakes are fed thru one line from the master, so if one caliper stops the wheel, the other would get the same pressure. It could have a sticky piston, or have air in it

[mbouse]

there are several connections between that bleed screw on the caliper and the master cylinder reservoir. any one of them could be leaking, and so could the tubes and hoses. if you gotta pull two quarts of fluid thru to eliminate the bubbles, you are sucking air somewhere. the hole system including reservoirs do not hold that much fluid.

[RDSPYDR]

Update - I replaced both the M/C and LR brake caliper today for various reasons. And I am still unhappy with the brakes.

I bleed the brakes and then just went back and tried again ( this time no air in system ). I then went nd checked all my brake line connections to insure I didn't have a leak. None present.

I am starting to believe either the servo or compensator is bad ? Any I ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

This isn't my first braking system that I have worked on and I unsure of what my next step should be, these brakes are just

I really don't want to take it to a mech because I am unsure where a FIAT mech is in this area.

Thanks

[RDSPYDR]

Can I just remove the compensator ? I am trying to remove any thing that might be the problem ( within reason ). Of course I could just take the Fred Flintstone approach

After reading both my mauals, I don't believe it is the brake servo.

Oh well done speculationg for the night. I will try again tomorrow.

Thanks

[RDSPYDR]

If I disconnect the compensator rod and I try to push it up to open the valve all the way, but it does't want to move I guess the valve is stuck. I am getting fluid through it though .

[manoa matt]

Your brake problems sound very similar to mine. After a complete overhaul/replacement of calipers, soft lines, master cylinder, and brake booster I still have a soft pedal. I’ve tried every bleeding procedure known: wife's foot, pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder, tapping on calipers/master cylinder while bleeding to dislodge bubbles. I even parked the car downhill because I thought I had air in the tip of the master cylinder (which points up ever so slightly when parked level).

As far as the rear parking brake goes, I also had the same problem. With the rear axle up on stands and the hand brake pulled up one wheel would always spin and the other would lock, sometimes the right sometimes the left. The cable looked ok and did not have any kinks, but the plastic outer sheath partially melted where it passes under the exhaust pipe however the cable still slid smoothly through the outer sheath. With the car on the ground and the brake handle all the way up the car would still roll backwards. I adjusted the cable/handle as per the manual several times with no effect. I finally just ordered a new cable and that cured all the hand brake problems, I wrapped the outer sheath with exhaust wrap where it passes under the pipe to prevent a re occurrence of the original problem. Works fine now.

I still don't know if I have the booster push rod set properly. It’s an IAP booster which differs slightly from the original in the mounting studs. The Factory manual gives one spec, and IAP gives another for the protrusion length past the housing. IAP says .8mm to 1.025mm while the factory manual says 1-2mm. So I compromised and set it at 1mm. I have an original booster that I could try to swap out, but that procedure is a real P.I.T.A.

And sure enough, according to the laws of automobile restoration: The one part in the system that I didn't replace became the weak link and eventually failed....the rear compensator valve. I have a new one at home but haven’t had the time to install it. It is gradually getting worse because every now and then when coming to a gradual stop the rear wheels will lock up for a millisecond then release and repeat, kind of like ABS rear brakes. I'm sure once I get the valve replaced and the bar adjusted the system will work a little better, but if the pedal is still soft I may have to switch out the boosters and try to bench bleed the master cylinder. (Which I did not do upon initial installation)

Sorry for the hijack, thought some of this might help you. Brakes seem to be a common problem/hot topic this week.