Need to change carb ASAP on my CS 73 1592. My stupid 28/36 DHSA2 only wants to work at 2000 rpm idle! I'm getting a single plane manifold and a new carb soon no matter what! I prefer Rpm over Torque... I like to shift
So over these to carbs which is better for me the 34ADF or the 32/36 DFEV?
Also aside from changing the manifold and the carb what else should I get to make sure everything works smoothly?
I agree with SteinOnkel,...but either carb will do about the same, overall. The 34ADF has twin 34mm barrels that draw evenly,...a 34 for low speed and a 34 for foot on the floor.
The progressive 32/36 is essentially the same carb (CFM-wise), but allows for better fuel economy at lower speeds, while running on just the primary, 32mm barrel. When the accelerator is depressed, the 36mm secondary barrel opens, and the car has a slightly larger intake bore than the 34mm. Bernoulli's Principle applies,...which means that 36mm flows quite a bit more than 34mm - as amazing as that might seem! Exponential increases with each size.
But how often do you drive with the secondaries open?!
E-ignition is a great upgrade, if at all possible!
Hope this helps,...Best of luck with your '73! Happy motoring! Todd.
1988 Mazda RX-7
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe
Nanonevol wrote:I'm happy with an original 34ADF in my '77.
Thanks for that explanation - I was surprised by the change in performance with a small size change.
I would say look over a Chinese knockoff carefully. I've heard of some poor quality control.
But you can't beat the price.
This goes for ALL carburetors these days, sadly. Wetminkey can sing a song or two about that
Actually, to follow up properly,...
As it turned out - a head gasket leak and a brand new catalytic converter killed my car for the length of time it took to figure it out! The cat plugged completely, over a long period of time. Once the head leak was resolved, and the cat problem taken care of, the car started immediately, ran like a champ, blew all of the built-up crap outta the head/cylinders, and has run perfect since.
My DFEV is a Spanish-made Weber, and was NEVER a problem. Easy for me to tell, when I tore it down and rebuilt it. Did not need it, but it passed my full inspection. The car runs absolutely fantastic with the DFEV, now. Again, it was never the source of the problem.
I have heard, multiple times, that the Chinese-built Webers need some close inspect on receipt,...I'd say that of any Chinese-made carb, of any type.
Glad that your car is running as it should, once again! Enjoy!!
Todd.
1988 Mazda RX-7
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe
On my Chinese 34ADF, there was a bit of flashing from the casting left and the choke was set a bit overzealousl. Bit of 2000grit took care of that right quick. Other than that, really good. Even the float was set right on the money. Bolted it up, adjusted it for fifteen minutes, done deal. Haven't touched it since then.
On my Chinese ADF the nut on the butterfly shaft was cross threaded and tool marks all over the place from someone having already worked on it. It was an obvious return and I could get no response from the seller when I tried to return it.
$50 bucks shipped if anyone wants it.
It should also be noted that my negative review disappeared from the product listing but older 5 star reviews are still there. YMMV.
Ok so I settled for the 32/36 DFEV! It came in yesterday with my new single plane manifold and my new starter (the modern one that weighs 1/2 the original one and has faster cranking etc.)
This will be installed next week
