Coaching on switching to electronic ignition in my ‘68

[tdskip]

I have some reading to do here still, but any top of mind coaching on setting the car up with electronic ignition?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Lots of people on this forum have expertise in this area, and my only observation (since I've never done this switch myself) is that it can work very well when done with the right (good quality) components. There are some potential pitfalls, but it sounds like you're doing your homework, so all should be good.

And good on you for getting your cooling system issues sorted out!

-Bryan

[Odoyle]

My 2 cents is to go with a marelli plex electronic ignition setup found on 79-85 spiders. Quite simple to convert the car from points to that setup. I did so on my 77 and I can provide pictures and info if interested. I find that genuine marelli distributor caps and rotors last way longer than any aftermarket caps and rotors. Also, I have found that using original AC delco ignition control modules last considerably longer than the 3 other aftermarket igm I went through.

[tdskip]

Very helpful gentlemen.

Will the later distributor install properly on my 1438 engine?

Why not just drop a Pertronix in?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Will the later distributor install properly on my 1438 engine?

Are you thinking of moving the distributor from the block to up on the exhaust cam housing, like it is on 1971 and later? Or leaving the distributor in the block like it currently is? The configurations of the two types of distributors are very different.

Why not just drop a Pertronix in?

I'm expecting SteinOnkel to drop by any minute now to give his input on this very question. Just you watch, he'll be here!

-Bryan

[tdskip]

I’m fine with leaving it where it is, don’t see the need to move it but I a newbie still (except for cooling system and brakes, understand those now, ha)

[spiderdan]

I guess I should chime in but I am really not the guy to tell you how to do it.
When I got my 68, about 16 years ago, I was introduced to a local Fiat mechanic "Canadan". I needed a wiper motor to get a safety check so I could transfer and plate the car. When he did the job he gave me 2 recommendations.
1. Replace single brake cylinder with a dual.
2. Replace points with electronic ignition.

He did both and from what I remember, I think he told me that the distributor is from some type of VW. I think it was a pretty simple switch over. I speak with him regularly (good to have a friend who knows Fiats) and I can ask him what he used. I've had no problems with the set up in 15 years and 80k miles.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

You know, I have to ask, what motivates you to want to switch to electronic ignition? I'm not against it as I've heard good things about the changeover, but at the same time, I still have points and condensers in my '69 and '71 and they work fine. Yes, it can be a pain to get the point gap set to give a dwell of 60 degrees (or 55 depending on model year), but once set, it seems to run just fine for years. Touch up the points with some emery paper every 10 years, put another dab of grease where the lever rubs against the cam, and you're good to go.

Just curious.

-Bryan

[dinghyguy]

Here in the too small garage we support Bryan, start with what it was built with then after it is running you can think about upgrades
My .02$ worth
Dinghyguy with 79 electronic ignition but hey it was stock!

[tdskip]

My SOP on all the vintage cars is to get electronic ignition on them ASAP. Been doing that for 15 years now starting with the MGs then TRs then Alfas and German stuff.

I’ve never had one fail me and have found that they without exception make the cars easier to start and run more cleanly. I’ve also found replacement parts like condensers have had quality issues - only time a car failed me in recent memory is when a new condenser failed on the GTV on the Cooperstate, with under 1,000 miles of use on it.

She is up and running, new tires arrive on Monday and then I am going to keep servicing and dealing with deferred items like bushings etc.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

My SOP on all the vintage cars is to get electronic ignition on them ASAP. Been doing that for 15 years now starting with the MGs then TRs then Alfas and German stuff.

I’ve never had one fail me and have found that they without exception make the cars easier to start and run more cleanly. I’ve also found replacement parts like condensers have had quality issues - only time a car failed me in recent memory is when a new condenser failed on the GTV on the Cooperstate, with under 1,000 miles of use on it.

Thanks, and again, I'm just curious what the advantages are, and you've covered those. Maybe something I'll consider in the future for either my '69 or '71. The '69 is hardly stock with a 2L block but with 1438cc head and intake manifold, 38DGAS carb, headers, etc.

And thanks to Dinghyguy for the vote of support, may he soon graduate from the too small garage into a much bigger one!

-Bryan

[tdskip]

Can’t argue against points being proven, just my personal preference.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

The one thing that I have noticed on my '69 stock distributor is that the ignition timing seems to bounce around a bit, mostly when idling. Not wildly, but it isn't rock steady at 10 degrees BTDC (or whatever) like I've seen on my other non-Fiat engines. I've always assumed this was because the centrifugal advance springs are worn and thus have some slop in them, and so the advance mechanism cams are always on the edge of starting to advance the timing. Especially given that I have the original '69 cams in the engine which yield an idle speed that bobbles around a bit.

No harm has ever seemed to come from this, but I'd be curious if anyone has any thoughts as to what is really going on and what the solution might be. Of course, I am also assuming that my timing light is not goofy, but the fact that it seems steady on other cars tells me it's probably not the issue.

-Bryan

[tdskip]

That sure found like ignition (assuming fueling isn’t an issue).

My MGBs and TRs and other stuff with Pertronix sits are dead even idle.

[DieselSpider]

If its jumping then that is usually a physical issue with sticky points, wobbly cap/rotor, slop in distributor bearings, worn drive gear or even a failing wire feeding the points. If the points move as part of a vacuum advance system they its very common for the wire to the points inside the distributor to thin out and eventually fail where they flex and its also common for the vacuum advance linkage to get lose too.

A more modern electronic unit eliminates all those moving parts and flexing wires inside the distributor that wear out which is why many convert to them.

Growing up in Northern New England I can remember many a winter day where points would foul from cold weather or condensation and on some models you needed to carry a spare set of points and primary wire just in case it got too cold making the wire jacket so stiff that the wire would snap when the vacuum advance pot spun the plate that the points were mounted on.