Timing belt change for 1800, same as 2000?

[MykeNytemare]

Most of the info I have found is 2000 specific (searches here turn up the 8 step diagram) and even help I have received on the fiat spider facebook forum is typically for the 2.0l TC engines. I am very much concerned that I will mess something up by moving the cam gears or something when changing the timing belt/tensioner/water pump, and even getting air out of the cooling system, that I have held off taking everything apart! This type of engine and setup is just new to me and the car runs great so I just want to make sure I know as much as possible before attacking this!

I also don't want to have to take off the crank pulley and deal with using the engine to crack it loose and tighten it unless absolutely necessary (which I can't see why it would be).

Whats the best way to to deal with the water pump pulley (so I can switch it to the new AR unit) and replacing the tensioner bearing with a new one?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I don't recall there being any differences between the 1.8L and 2.0L engines are far as changing the timing belt, although note that the 2.0L engine has a longer belt so make sure you get the belt that's correct for your engine.

A few points:

• - There is no need to remove the crankshaft pulley.
  - Before I change a timing belt, I set the engine so that the #1 and #4 pistons are at the top of their rotation (using the timing marks), and the small holes in the camshaft pulleys are lined up with the marks on each camshaft housing. I try to keep the engine in this position as I'm changing the timing belt.
  - Remove what you need to, in order to remove the timing belt and anything else you're working on like the water pump, timing belt tensioner, etc. There is nothing special about removing and reinstalling these, although some of the bolts are tricky to get to.
  - I'm sure there are many variations on this, but to put on a new timing belt, I turn it sideways so I can slip it between the crankshaft pulley and the lip of the oil pan, and then onto the crankshaft cog pulley for the belt. I run the belt around the auxiliary shaft pulley on the drivers side, making sure that this pulley is also timed right. From there, I run the belt around the intake camshaft pulley, and then slide it completely over and past the exhaust camshaft pulley and "dangling" in the area between the exhaust pulley and the front of the housing (to allow more play in the belt). Then, back to the other end of the belt from the crankshaft, I work the belt around the passenger side of the auxiliary shaft pulley, and around the tensioner pulley (make sure the two bolts holding this are somewhat loose). I verify that the timing marks are still all lined up, stand on the drivers side of the car and with my left hand palm I push against the tensioner (pushing away from me) and with my right hand, I slide the timing belt onto the exhaust cam pulley. You may have to rotate the exhaust cam ever so slightly to get the belt teeth to match up. I rock the engine back and forth slightly by hand to make sure the tensioner is pulling the belt tight, and then tighten the tensioner.
  - I recheck the timing for all pulleys, and put everything back together.

I hope this makes sense, but let me know if something is unclear or I didn't answer a question.

-Bryan

[RRoller123]

Here is some visual assistance.