81 FI Spider Won't Run. Fires and Dies

[tedy]

Since I purchased my 81 Spider several years ago, I have always had a problem with the fuel system losing its prime after sitting for some period of time. I had some non-related work done at Allison's and the car drove home like a scalded cat. No problems. I tried to start it several days later and it would not start. I primed the fuel system by operating the switch in the O2 sensor. It cranks, fires and runs for about 3 to 4 seconds and then shuts down. The connections at the coil are good and I removed the connector on the #1 injector and it has voltage with the key in the on position. Does anyone have any suggestions? Help

[MattVAS]

Sounds like the injectors are not firing. Could be the air flow meter. Could be a bad ECU. Could be a few bad sensor (coolant, O2, throttle).

I'd start by jiggling the air flow meter door while someone tries to start the car.

[kimu]

Same year car, same issue. Had the ECU (two of them) tested and were good. AFM and sensors all check out and are within spec.
Issue not as yet resolved.

Next step is to test the Fuel Injectors by applying a voltage manually and listening for activity.


Helpful information here:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28171

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37023

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14080

[tima01864]

Look at the connections under the coil, Ignition control module. They can get rusty.

[spider2081]

There is a number of things that can contribute to your symptoms and it might even be correcting more than one that gets you going.
I like to monitor the DC voltage at the coil Pink wire terminal. It should be battery voltage when the key is in the "run" and also in the "start" positions. Then I like to monitor the Brown/white wire terminal of the coil. measuring DC voltage it should be a pulsing voltage when cranking and a steady DC voltage with the key in the "run" position. This voltage should be a little lower than the voltage on the Pink wire terminal.
I recently worked on a car that someone put the pick up coils magnet in the distributor up side down. car was producing a weak intermittent spark with a test spark plug. So I was thinking I had a fuel problem. After some time got back to the distributor and noticed the magnets shape was not conforming to the pick up coils base plate shape. Flipped the magnet and car runs pretty good.
I also like to monitor the fuel pressure at the cold start valve. I purchased a small mechanical fuel pressure gauge from Jegs for $20 AND SOME 5/16 (8MM) Fi hose and a 5/16 "T" I connect the "T" to the end of the cold start hose that went to the valve Connect the gauge and the cold start valve to the other T outlets and look for 28-32 lbs pressure. I leave the gauge in place until repairs completed.
I use a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors opening. the tip of the screwdriver on the injector near its connector and the handle against my ear. The injectors are easily heard this way. Like a noid light this only tells you the injector is trying to work.

Keep us informed of your progress

[tedy]

Well I got the car started and running. I have no explanation as to the solution. My brother helped me by turning the key while I tapped on the air flow meter. It started and has been running ever since. Still scratching my head with one hand and keeping my fingers crossed with the other..

[RRoller123]

Check carefully for a good connection at the AFM, and pull the large intake hose and make sure that the the AFM flap is not sticking. That is a common problem. The chamber can be gently sanded if the door is sticking anywhere along its swing path, and it will leave easily visible rub marks. Mine was that way. It also made a very odd chirping sound that took a long time to identify.

[spider2081]

I wanted to delete this post but couldn't figure out how. So I "backspaced" out the text. How can a post be deleted by the person who makes the post??