To flush fill seams in front of trunk lid, lower rear quarter panels and on nose / valance - the 2 seams either side of lower opening - What would be the best way to go about this? Seam sealer then filler? I am concerned with filler cracking if (especially nose) flexes, as I feel it will flex a bit.

I really like how these came out:
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y45 ... wwytdx.jpg
Thanks!

I don't know the answer to your question, but those are Andy Truscott's cars I believe, so I'd say look him up & ask. He's always glad to be helpful!

Thank you. Will do. I have a reply from Eastwood suggesting to use their aluminum filled metal filler. I picture it similar to J.B. Weld.
Eastwood note:
Now for the areas that see more flex it may either be in your best bet to use actual lead to fill or our Metal filler http://www.eastwood.com/ew-contour-alum ... -3-oz.html

IMO, you're asking for trouble by filling-in these seams. It sounds like you're trying to achieve a really good finish on your car, and it would be a shame to have it marred with cracks resulting from such a modification. Repairs to cracks caused by these mods would be extremely expensive.

I filled the nose seam on my '79 with a mig welder and 1/8" mild steel tig filler wire. First sand the gap where the panels meet to bare metal 3/8" on each side of the joint. Lay the 1/8" tig filler wire in the gap and clamp at the top. Bend the tig filler wire to the bottom and clamp. Using the mig welder, stitch weld the panel gaps by bridging each panel across the 1/8" wire. Weld 3/16", cool the panel with air from an air hose then skip 3" and repeat. When the gap is filled, grind smooth. On the inside flanges I clamped and plug welded the flange every 2".
After everything was welded and ground I coated it with epoxy primer and painted it. No cracks in the paint where the joint was yet.

I don't recommend doing this because; 1) Rear lower driver quarter needs to be removed if gas tank filler neck ever cracks or tank needs to come out (also necessary when large crash bumper shocks are removed in rear) and 2) possibility of cracks in bodywork post paint from vibrations/flexing while using car.

Though if your really set on doing it, clean the gaps and have them in at least primer and use 3M Fast'n Firm Seam Sealer (and quality masking tape) to mask of area parallel to gaps as to only fill the seam. This will give you a sealed waterproof backing for any filler put on top.

A middle ground for this idea would be to just use the seam sealer to fill in the panel seams which looks clean but factory and paint over (which i recently did on my 77)

I did the same procedure as Kmoses.

You don't need to take of the 1/4 panel to remove the fuel filler hose, it comes out as one piece from inside the trunk, just release it from the tank and remove the hose clips. I have taken it out and in about three times
Also the bumper shocks come out after you remove the bolt, rearward. does not interfere with the 1/4 panel. you do have to move the fuel tank. this refers to a 1980 spider

Remember all modifications always bring up other problems. just depends on how much you want to accommodate.

Have Fun!!

baltobernie wrote:IMO, you're asking for trouble by filling-in these seams. It sounds like you're trying to achieve a really good finish on your car, and it would be a shame to have it marred with cracks resulting from such a modification. Repairs to cracks caused by these mods would be extremely expensive.

Thank you for your reply. Been considering this for a while and it just came up again as I was talking to someone from Vick Auto as we were discussing fender mods for fitment of their Corsa 15 x 8 wheels. They advised against flush filling ANY exterior seams unless a full roll cage is installed due to body flexing even under minor stresses which he has seen causing the filled seams to crack.

I like the Corsa wheels SO much better than any other options I have seen and weighing the purchase of a set against being able to perform the mods sufficiently to keep tires from rubbing fenders.
Going off on a tangent here so will start another topic after searching for answers regarding fender mods to fit 15 x 8 wheels and tires.

Nice job Drummond. Welding the seams as Kmoses and yourself have done is in my mind the only way to fill these seams for a smooth paint finish that wont crack. Yes you have to be careful not to put too much heat in the panel. But once done properly it will outlast any seam sealed joint. And look much better. A roll cage is nice for minimizing twist and flex. And we're talking a cage you have to climb over to get in the seat. Not a roll bar. But it wont do anything for the seams in the nose or the tail. And there's no guarantee it will stop flexing between the roof and trunk. Seam sealer is designed to dry soft so it can flex with the body. Too heavy a coat of paint over seam sealer can and will crack. Look in the rain gutters of Detroit iron when they still had them. But the seam sealer remains flexible and thus keeps out the moisture. It is not designed to be top coated with filler. Lead is wonderfull when applied properly. Eastwoods filler with aluminum powder is still just polyester filler. It doesn't absorb water like the old talc based fillers. It dries hard and when it does it will crack at a flexing seam and allow moisture in. If you want an invisible seam a properly leaded one or a welded one are the way to go.

Dave's comment is spot on. Another thing to keep in mind is the amount of distortion produced when welding on or around any exterior body panel. Anyone who has done it can confirm. Leading might be a good option, but have never personally done it.