Hot start problems

[GrowingConcern]

I have recently bought a 1981 Spider. It runs great but has a hard time starting when hot (190 degrees). Will turn over like it should but not start. It seems to reset and start after a couple hours of cooling down or if I park on an incline I can pop the clutch in 3 gear and I am off and running.

Does not make sense any suggestions?

[joehorner]

This is a common problem in Spiders. You have to run a wire straight to the back of where you put your key to start the car. Poor engineering. There is a thread on how to do it. I don't remember where it is. search ignition wire fix or something like that. I hope this helps.

[courtenay]

This is a common problem in Spiders. You have to run a wire straight to the back of where you put your key to start the car. Poor engineering. There is a thread on how to do it. I don't remember where it is. search ignition wire fix or something like that. I hope this helps.

That's the "brown wire fix" and it was done at the factory for 1980 and newer models.

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a pooched fuel pump. To test for it, when the car is hot and won't start, you need to get the top of your AFM off, turn the key to the start position and move the AFM arrow slightly (to open the AFM). If the fuel pump is OK, you will hear it start pumping. If it doesn't start pumping, it's NFG.

[klweimer]

It could also be the FI system is losing it's residual pressure after you turn off the engine. The system should hold pressure for some period of time (2-3 hours anyway), so that the fuel run the injectors doesn't boil out. Once the injectors are vapor locked, it can be hard to get started again, perhaps push (or roll) starting gives you enough manifold vacuum to pull fuel back into the injectors. I'd look at pressure on your fuel rail after the car sits for a while.
Kirk

[lglade]

I had a 914 with the same injection system (Bosch L-Jetronic) fuel injection that was used on our Spiders. The fuel pump was located near the heat-exchanger, and as a result the car had a horrible vapor lock problem with symptoms like you've described: the car would just shut down on a hot day or not restart until it could cool for a few hours.

I think the advice on checking out your fuel pressure is a good (if you have the tools), otherwise new pumps are relatively cheap and easy to replace. For the cost of someone to do the diagnostics, you could install a new pump and see if the problem goes away.

[GrowingConcern]

Got it thanks for the input. We did the fixes suggested. It ended up being the injection relay under the glove box.