Hi there, just wondering if anyone had concerns or opinions about Isky valve springs leading to more wear on the cam lobes and tappets. Higher stiffness means more force, more force means more friction, which means more wear. GC springs much pricier, but worth it? I am rebuilding a 1608 with 9.8 CR pistons, possibly a hotter intake cam (TBD), some head work (TBD). I have a new Weber 32/36 DFEV and an 1800 intake manifold on hand, but somewhat tempted to go the dual carb route. Engine is out and I will dissassemble this weekend and bring the pieces to the machine shop shortly afterward.
Nothing too wild here. Not a track car, just want more fun blasting around country roads on sunny weekend days. I want it to last a while....
Isky Valve Springs and Wear
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Re: Isky Valve Springs and Wear
the spring pressure still has to be set and the advantage to Isky or GC springs is to allow higher rpm, not just raise the seat pressure
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Re: Isky Valve Springs and Wear
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Last edited by fiatfactory on Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
nothing to see here... move along.
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- Posts: 135
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2010 2:12 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 Sport Spider and 1979 Spider 2000
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Re: Isky Valve Springs and Wear
Thanks Mark and Steve. I have not driven this car properly since I have owned it, since I bought is as a mechanical basket case that could barely run, with only 100 psi compression. I also have a 1979 2000 that runs well, but living with that car for years I have learned there is nothing to be gained by taking revs much over 6000 with that engine. With the 1608, highly doubtful I would run it to 8000 much if at all, even though I understand it to be a much higher revving motor than the 1995. I will probably not run it much over 7000 to be honest, except winding it out on the on ramps.
As far as lightweight valve components, not really sure where to go with that, the options are basically OE steel or stainless valves, correct? I do not know the weights of the valves, but 'normal' steel and ss have nearly identical density. Do you think oversized valves are worth it with this little motor, assuming I get the throats opened up in the head accordingly? Maybe with a restrictive single carb it might not make lots of sense, but I would probably want the headroom for a dual carb set up if I chose to go that route at some point. All restrictions are cumulative, so it cannot hurt to reduce them when reasonable possible, I am thinking.
As far as lightweight valve components, not really sure where to go with that, the options are basically OE steel or stainless valves, correct? I do not know the weights of the valves, but 'normal' steel and ss have nearly identical density. Do you think oversized valves are worth it with this little motor, assuming I get the throats opened up in the head accordingly? Maybe with a restrictive single carb it might not make lots of sense, but I would probably want the headroom for a dual carb set up if I chose to go that route at some point. All restrictions are cumulative, so it cannot hurt to reduce them when reasonable possible, I am thinking.
- engineerted
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Re: Isky Valve Springs and Wear
I have been running with Isky springs for the last 11 years, no issue for lobe wear. Oil type is going to be the bigger factor, choose an oil with higher level of ZDDP, (not trying to start another oil debate here) i use Rotella 15w40
Ted
1978 124 Spider, Complete Restoration
1974 Fiat 124 F Production Race car
1978 124 Spider, Complete Restoration
1974 Fiat 124 F Production Race car
- Odoyle
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Re: Isky Valve Springs and Wear
Thinking about getting a set, can anyone else share their experiences? Good and Bad please.