Replacing shocks, springs and control arms. Help

[activekcc]

Ok, so, my lowering springs and shocks came in today. Yayyyy! But after looking at my bushings, I've decided to purchase new upper and lower control arms with all new joints and bushings installed. Oh, I also replaced the entire braking system with copper lines and braided lines, new booster and master cylinder. Same calipers and disc though.
The back looks easy enough so this thread is for the front of the car.
Question: what comes next after taking off the wheels? ( the car is on jack stands)

[wizard124]

Search this topic. Lots of threads and advice.

[4uall]

long read however, I did all

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic ... lit=shocks

[lglade]

Replacing control arms is a straight forward job, requiring normal hand tools and a spring compressor. Here's a link to get you started.

http://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/sp ... l_Arms.htm

I think you'll find people here are more likely to want to help you resolve specific problems rather than offering to spoon-feed you entire repair procedures--that's what repair manuals are for. But if you tackle a project and get stuck at some specific step, and just don't know how to proceed, then you'll likely find a dozen answers by people who've experienced similar problems themselves.

That said, I always use the search function first to see if my problem has been discussed before--particularly if it relates to a routine repair or maintenance procedure.

[phaetn]

Prozac helps.

I just went through this after a failure of the crossmember bolt/nut.

With lowering springs your camber will be affected, likely requiring more shims to get it back to spec of 0° (+/- 30'), though you may decide you want a bit more negative camber if you're looking for front end grip during cornering (sacrificing straight line rolling resistance, inner tire wear, and contact patch under braking). You may or may not have enough thread for the extra shims, it likely depends on your dampers. On most cars lowering springs produce more negative camber just by dropping the front end, but in my case all the new parts ended up in heroically comical positive camber -- probably because of all the new bushings. It was not a good experience going to an alignment shop because they totally neglected caster.

Since December I had new upper and lower Vema control arms and A/R lowering springs installed, and recently Koni Yellows. After the failure of the crossmember bolt I had to do it again myself after having originally paid someone else to do it. It was a fair amount of time, but straightforward. My biggest hurdle (apart from actually getting a longer aft crossmember bolt in position through a hole that required the dexterity of a gynecologist moonlighting as a proctologist) was that a spring compressor wouldn't fit on the outside with the short front springs, nor could one designed for the inside then fit through the lower control arm hole for the damper.

Apart from that it was just 17, 19, and 22mm wrenches, sockets, and crow foot, plus a torque wrench.

Cheers,
phaetn

[spiderdan]

required the dexterity of a gynecologist moonlighting as a proctologist)

No mention of installation fluid?