Heater Valve Leak

[Rambo]

So i was sitting in the Fiat listening to music and decided to turn the heater and the hot coolant started to leak from the valve. It actually melted part of my rubber floor mat.

https://youtu.be/XoYkmyf8ICk

It has been acting weird for a month its been hard to actuate and has been working backwards almost. I really don't want to replace this right now so i might try some of the water pump lube that is suppose to lubricate seals hoping that maybe i can fix a dried seal.

Questions:

1. What makes a heater valve leak from this position?
2. Does anyone have any comments of the water pump lube?
3. Can someone verify if this valve is the original valve or the new type that you have to bend the pipe for? If its the original is it hard to change the heater pipe or bend the pipe?








4. Any advice, thoughts, comments on my situation would be appreciated.

[124JOE]

its shot replace it
it looks like the original
but im not sure
at any rate it leaks so its bad

[RRoller123]

You can bypass it in the engine compartment too since Spring is coming.

[KevAndAndi]

I bypassed mine as a preventative measure, simply because I was afraid it might leak. If I were you, I would immediately bypass and look to replace the valve at your leisure. I certainly wouldn't try to "fix" the existing, leaky valve. That's just asking for trouble.

[So Cal Mark]

pretty much impossible to bend the pipe without kinking it. Csaba and I both carry the replacement pipes made to fit the new valves

[Rambo]

Ok definetly going to replace it. Im going to use some forceps to pinch the heater hoses so i dont have to drain and fill coolant. Is it hard to change out the heater pipe from the firewall to the valve? Looking at the pipes and they are both on the same plate. How does this work?

[124JOE]

they are both bolted directly to the heater core
be careful

[Rambo]

so does this mean i have to replace both im confused?

[joelittel]

Your pipes are probably filling up with crud, but you won't know for sure until you get them off and have a closer look.

I replaced the pipes, valve and core at the same time because it's not a task I wanted to do more than once.

Replacing the pipes and/or valve isn't a difficult job, except for the lack of space to work in. It's hard to see what you're doing, there's not enough room for your hands and your tools and you'll be working in strange positions the whole time.

I ended up taking my passenger seat out so I could lay down in the car while I worked (wife teased me and said it was laziness rather than necessity ha ha ha).

A shop light helps to see under the dash.

While you are in there you might want to check the heater core too.

[klweimer]

One pipe is bolted directly to the heater core and the other is bolted to the valve (which is bolted to the heater core). They are both clamped down to the side of the heater box with a single double U clamp. You can remove them individually. Lots of threads on the forum with pictures. As Mark said, buy the new valve and the matching tube to go with it from him or Autoricambi. Buy a couple extra gaskets (you need 3 to do the whole job). And yes, it's a pain in the butt.
Kirk

[Rambo]

Should i install the gaskets dry or use some form of sealant/grease?

[klweimer]

I used Permatex Ultra Black RTV successfully. I pulled the whole heater core out to put in the new valve and pipes. It's do-able if the center console is out. Probably not if the console is in place. How does your heater fan sound? If you pull the lower half of the heater box out you can clean up and lube your fan as well.
Kirk

[Rambo]

Thanks for your help Kirk.

I used my heater and fan all winter with no problems until the valve went out. The car has lived in the south all its life so the fan doesnt get used much. I think it should be fine with just replacing the valve for now given the amount of effort it takes to pull out the heater core.