Hi All,

Dash renovation underway that includes some parts I received in a box of spares I bought a few years ago.

I believe this is a complete Spider Point burled walnut set as the shift plate, middle console hazard trim, and the pieces in the centre (wiper speed and dash dimmer knobs) are all metal. It also included the e-brake grip which makes it a complete set and a nice improvement over my cobbled-together precious dash.

In any case, the thick plastic veneer has come away from the substrate. The substrate looks more like think card/paper than wood. Please see image below.



My plan is warm/heat up the veneer, apply adhesive and place into a press overnight to set up.

My question is: Which adhesive to use?

Any suggestions for adhesive and/or process?

Thanks,

Jordan

So first thing I think to do is try to determine if the veneer that was used was a self adhesive type or if there was adhesive added. If self-adhesive, these are usually thermoplastic, and you may get away with reapplying it under heat and pressure.

Hmmm. How would I determine if it was thermal?

I do not see any roll or brush marks.

Should I try to heat it up?

Even if it was Thermo, could I use an adhesive?

Not sure, but I would try an iron, through a T-Shirt, and set on a low setting. See if it re-adheres it to the substrate.

RRoller123 wrote:Not sure, but I would try an iron, through a T-Shirt, and set on a low setting. See if it re-adheres it to the substrate.

A steam iron and a damp white detail rag works well to reactivate adhesive that has not dried out as long as the substrate has not started to turn to powder. This can also work on sheet vinyl floors that have started to bubble or wrinkle in spots. With a plastic laminate on a pressed wood base you usually would be best with old fashioned Hybond Contact Cement.

Thanks for the thoughts!

I will test the back of one of the panels with an iron as described.

Contact cement would give me the most flexibility in working time. Apply, let dry, position in press and clamp.

Once I get my press set up, I will report back.

More input welcome.

Thanks again,

Jordan

Ok, seems to have been heat activate at some point as the iron did such one corner back down. Only to lift again!

I assume the adhesive has expired.

Next will be contract cement ( after I replace a seal in my press)

A flat table, strip of plywood and heavy tool box should be plenty of press if you want to go that route however with hybond a hard rubber hand roller will suffice.

Burgandy81, here is my recent experience with laminating the console panels.
Check out my previous post:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic ... 89#p250675

Hope it helps.
victor

Hi All,

Well, I am done and thought I would give an update. Firstly, thanks for all the input!

I ended up using Titebond Neoprene Plus Contact Cement. Mostly because it was the only can in the store. A little research when I got home lead me to believe it was an appropriate choice. The best part was the low oder and being able to use this in the basement with the kids in the house.

It took two coats and a long time to dry before pressing together.

A couple of notes if anyone tries this again.

1. Be cautious of a build up of adhesive at the joint of the original substrate and laminate. In my case the cement was extra thick in the crease and did not dry evenly leading to a little wet cement oozing out when I tried to press the parts together!!! I ended up doing this a couple of times.

2. The Laminate was a little cracked and I unfortunately cracked in further when I pressed the pieces together. Not sure what would have helped although some heat (from a heat gun) seemed to be helpful.

See below for the end result. Looks OK from 10ft! (A bit like the rest of my car.)