I'm putting my EZ Cool and door cards back on and I want make sure my windows are adjusted correctly. The passenger side looks good (tight fit)...



... but the driver's side seems low and don't keep rain out.







The PO installed the top but, to be honest, I haven't checked too closely to ensure it's installed correctly. I'm going to loosen the window wire screws, push up the window, and try to get a tight fit if possible. Is this the correct procedure? I notice that when I close the door the door moves up about 1/4" from open to completely closed. I guess it's forced up by the door frame and rocker panel. Should I adjust the door 1st? Should I expect no upward movement when the door latches? Also does the top sit where it should relative to the windows? Maybe if someone has a picture that shows how it show look, that might help.

Can't comment on how to adjust so that your window winds up to a higher level. Maybe someone else can chime in...
Sounds like you have worn door hinges causing door droop. Have a helper replicate the movement, rocking the door up & down, while you observe motion on the door hinges. Also look inside the door hinge cavity sometimes cracks develop there in which case you'd need to remove the door and have a good welder perform some delicate surgery.
In my eyes the extra insulation applied to the door only adds extra weight, placing more strain in those areas creating more wear. It's a convertible, killing road noise shouldn't be an issue...my 2 cents.
EDIT: my bad, EZ COOL apparently is extremely lightweight, it is not an adhesive-backed rubber as i thought, therefore should not cause an extra weight issue on your doors as some other sound-deadeners.

Looks like the top is not pulled tight across the roof and is set off to the right side of the car. The tensioning cables are not in the guides at the top of the rear windows either and potentially were not installed at all.

Read the recent threads on installing the top for details.

So I think I'll try in this order...
- ensuring top is installed correctly
- ensure door isn't sagging too much and no cracks although I never saw any during my restore (can door alignment be adjusted? I'll search)
- adjust window

Yep. EZ Cool is really light. Not really necessary but I think it will make door cards really snug when screwed against it. And it really cleans up the ugly inside of the doors. And I had the right amount left over from my floor restore. So it's just gathering dust. Maybe I have a bit of Steve Jobs in me... you can't see it but it makes you feel better knowing that it looks good underneath.

Doors can be adjusted by loosening the hinge bolts slightly while a helper yanks the door toward the direction needed. I believe the bolts in the door post cavity control up and down while the bolts on the actual door control forward/rearward. All this of course after you make sure the hinges are not worn/no cracks. Doing this solo can be frustrating especially if you don't do this often.
Always test your door carefully. The tolerances are tight and it's easy to scuff your paintjob if the door scuffs against the quarter panel or b-pillar.

AriK wrote:Doors can be adjusted by loosening the hinge bolts slightly while a helper yanks the door toward the direction needed. I believe the bolts in the door post cavity control up and down while the bolts on the actual door control forward/rearward. All this of course after you make sure the hinges are not worn/no cracks. Doing this solo can be frustrating especially if you don't do this often.
Always test your door carefully. The tolerances are tight and it's easy to scuff your paintjob if the door scuffs against the quarter panel or b-pillar.

I noticed that my doors were missing the door guides as well.

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/RI8-4 ... Guide-Set/

Only the screws are left. I think I'll adjust the doors as best I can and then I'll get those guides as well.

No cracks in door, frame or hinges. So door adjustment wasn't bad. Essentially while sitting in the car I loosened the screws, lifted the door (about 2" actually), tightened the screws and with a bit of trial and error got the door closing much better.