And I must've read the instruction manual wrong, because here's where I'm at:
I gotta say, for almost 40 years old it's not looking too bad. I just hope I can get it all back together before it becomes driving season.
So I was changing my spark plugs...
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- Posts: 92
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:24 pm
- Your car is a: 1977 Spider
- Location: Jeannette, PA
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- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 10:24 am
- Your car is a: 1975 Spider
- Location: NE CT
Re: So I was changing my spark plugs...
Yep you're doin it wrong...
How's the diagnosis.
How's the diagnosis.
- courtenay
- Patron 2020
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- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
- Location: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Re: So I was changing my spark plugs...
Don't think I've ever seen anyone change them from the inside.
Bruce Shearer
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
Re: So I was changing my spark plugs...
my experience has been when you see a clean band around the edge of the piston it indicates blow by past the rings
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- Your car is a: 1975 124 Spider
- Location: Oregon Coast
Re: So I was changing my spark plugs...
Yep.So Cal Mark wrote:my experience has been when you see a clean band around the edge of the piston it indicates blow by past the rings
But... I have to agree with ebrown's spark plug R&R method. It's the best way to work on a car in the winter.
I mean really...I tore out the carpet to patch the floor and a week later there was a 34adf dropped off at the front door. It's just the way it goes, right?
FOR SALE: 1975 124 Spider http://fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=34477
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- Posts: 92
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:24 pm
- Your car is a: 1977 Spider
- Location: Jeannette, PA
Re: So I was changing my spark plugs...
Happy new year everyone!
Anyway, the reasons I'm rebuilding the engine are 1) all of the gaskets were leaking, and 2) I did a compression and leakdown test right after I bought the car and compression was decent (100-120psi all around) but leakdown on cylinders 2 and 3 was in the 60-70% range. I figured that the head gasket was leaking in between the cylinders, but when I took it apart the gasket was fine. I was looking at the bores yesterday and not only are they very shiny (no crosshatching), but in cylinders 2 and 3 there are what looks like rusty spots where maybe the rings rusted to the bores while sitting for a long time. Strangely enough there are no marks in cylinders 1 and 4.
These are cylinders 2 and 3:
So it looks like I'm going the first size over on pistons.
So here's my tentative list of parts, along with some potential questions about them (this is on a 1977 1800 California spec car):
- 4.5mm dome pistons (which ones to use?)
- Lightened flywheel (can't decide whether to have mine lightened or go with Mark's lighter aluminum one)
- AR aluminum crank pulley (already have)
- DFEV carb (already have)
- Plex ignition (already have)
- Vicks complete header back exhaust (the only performance exhaust I've found that routes under the passenger seat like my original)
- Mark's cams either 285V or 284V (considering other mods, which ones would work better for a street-driven car?)
- Adjustable cam gears
- Oversize valves (are they worth doing on an otherwise stock head?)
- Mark's head studs
- Port match head and intake
Anything else wothwhile I'm missing (minus basic gaskets/bearings/etc.)? As usual, thanks for any help!
Anyway, the reasons I'm rebuilding the engine are 1) all of the gaskets were leaking, and 2) I did a compression and leakdown test right after I bought the car and compression was decent (100-120psi all around) but leakdown on cylinders 2 and 3 was in the 60-70% range. I figured that the head gasket was leaking in between the cylinders, but when I took it apart the gasket was fine. I was looking at the bores yesterday and not only are they very shiny (no crosshatching), but in cylinders 2 and 3 there are what looks like rusty spots where maybe the rings rusted to the bores while sitting for a long time. Strangely enough there are no marks in cylinders 1 and 4.
These are cylinders 2 and 3:
So it looks like I'm going the first size over on pistons.
So here's my tentative list of parts, along with some potential questions about them (this is on a 1977 1800 California spec car):
- 4.5mm dome pistons (which ones to use?)
- Lightened flywheel (can't decide whether to have mine lightened or go with Mark's lighter aluminum one)
- AR aluminum crank pulley (already have)
- DFEV carb (already have)
- Plex ignition (already have)
- Vicks complete header back exhaust (the only performance exhaust I've found that routes under the passenger seat like my original)
- Mark's cams either 285V or 284V (considering other mods, which ones would work better for a street-driven car?)
- Adjustable cam gears
- Oversize valves (are they worth doing on an otherwise stock head?)
- Mark's head studs
- Port match head and intake
Anything else wothwhile I'm missing (minus basic gaskets/bearings/etc.)? As usual, thanks for any help!