Took out the rear axle and diff on the car. Wasn't too bad and took about 3 hours total. Here's a few pics.





https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mbvn98 ... sp=sharing

Going to sand, paint and replace all bushings. Don't have access to a sandblaster so I'll do my best to clean it. Would people recommend POR-15 or just rustoleum paint? I'll probably clean and spray the underside with rocker panel paint as well while I have easy access.

Hey, those pix bring back memeories from last summer......

Richard, I cleaned mine off (several applications of Gunk engine cleaner, followed by lots of Simple Green and wire brushing), then rattle canned rustoleum anti-rust primer, then anti-rust satin enamel. Touched up missed spots with a brush (horrors!)

I think it came out nicely:

http://rs1361.pbsrc.com/albums/r667/njo ... 0&fit=clip

Don't make my mistake: empty the diff before starting, so the vent hole doesn't pour out diff fluid when you turn it "upside down" to paint it.

Good luck; it's worrth it to see nice clean components under the car.....

Neil

here is a photo of 1/2 of mine done with POR 15. I sanded it first the applied with a brush. I don't have any finished photos.

njoconnor wrote:Hey, those pix bring back memeories from last summer......

Richard, I cleaned mine off (several applications of Gunk engine cleaner, followed by lots of Simple Green and wire brushing), then rattle canned rustoleum anti-rust primer, then anti-rust satin enamel. Touched up missed spots with a brush (horrors!)

I think it came out nicely:

http://rs1361.pbsrc.com/albums/r667/njo ... 0&fit=clip

Don't make my mistake: empty the diff before starting, so the vent hole doesn't pour out diff fluid when you turn it "upside down" to paint it.

Good luck; it's worrth it to see nice clean components under the car.....

Neil

Neil,
Thanks for the advice and tip on emptying the diff. I haven't emptied mine yet but will do that and save the fluid (only about 1000km on this diff fluid). I think I'll follow a similar approach. And generally I think the axle looks good (no broken welds or crazy rusted out pieces).

Richard

So I'm thinking to treat the underside while I have the axle out by doing this...
- power wash the underbody to remove some of the dirt
- sand some of the critical suspension points
- clean, prep and POR-15 the suspension points (where the trailing arm bushings and bolts go through)
- spray the underside with rocker panel black

I don't want to spend too much time on this but thought I'd at least treat the important pieces and make it look better.

Can't remember exactly... Is there a problem with painting over POR-15 because from what I understand you're not supposed to leave it exposed to the elements? Or will POR-15 on the axle and underbody with no follow up spray paint last just fine?

I always paint over it. POR 15 chalks quickly if exposed to the sun light. That should not be a problem under the car. Putting a top coat on should no hut anything.

njoconnor wrote:Hey, those pix bring back memeories from last summer......

Richard, I cleaned mine off (several applications of Gunk engine cleaner, followed by lots of Simple Green and wire brushing), then rattle canned rustoleum anti-rust primer, then anti-rust satin enamel. Touched up missed spots with a brush (horrors!)

I think it came out nicely:

http://rs1361.pbsrc.com/albums/r667/njo ... 0&fit=clip

Don't make my mistake: empty the diff before starting, so the vent hole doesn't pour out diff fluid when you turn it "upside down" to paint it.

Good luck; it's worrth it to see nice clean components under the car.....

Neil

And where exactly are the vent holes on the diff/axle? Mine didn't leak even when upside down. So I guess mine are plugged?

Hmmmm....lemme recall:

Facing the input (driveshaft) side of the diff, look at about 10-1100 position. I recall a rubber/flexible cover, over a vent. Mine were NOT plugged, I can tell ya! If it's not leaking, get it painted, then take a look for the vent.

Neil

Working through the rear axle, diff and suspension. So far so good.

Painted...



Springs and trailing arms...



Only thing that needs replacing are the shock absorbers (KYB GR-2)...



Went to local parts store (Cdn Tire) and they didn't have them. I'll look on Monday in other local stores but should these be easy to get? If not what's an equivalent with similar ride quality? I would get them from AR...

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/SU8-4 ... -Rear-KYB/

.. but don't feel like waiting. I want to get this back together before it gets too cold!

Yeah, Richard, that looks great! Keep going; hope you find the KYB's nearby. I went with Koni yellows (pricey), but the smile on Patty's face when we hit the washboards around here was worth every penny.

Neil

njoconnor wrote:Yeah, Richard, that looks great! Keep going; hope you find the KYB's nearby. I went with Koni yellows (pricey), but the smile on Patty's face when we hit the washboards around here was worth every penny.

Neil

Neil,
Thanks. This was actually one of the most enjoyable jobs to work on. Least work and most progress with no hiccups!

I'll take a look on Monday for the KYB's. Like to stick with what I have and what AR sells if possible.

And another Fiat Spider owner with a wife named Patty. Is there a Patt'ern there???

Richard

Looking good.

njoconnor wrote:I went with Koni yellows (pricey), but the smile on Patty's face when we hit the washboards around here was worth every penny.

I'll second that. I found a great improvement over the KYB's. With the IAP red springs my car sits just right in my opinion.

Ended up just going with the KYBs. Found them locally in stock at CAPS Auto (BEST parts store in Ottawa) for $25. Eventually may try other options but at this point want to just get the car back to 'original' and back together before it gets too cold here.

Install of rear axle, shocks and springs going well.




Was a bit of a pain to ensure the rubber grommet went through the hole and seat well but I think I got it.



The PO had a bunch of extra rubber grommets on the top (inside the trunk area). I just went with the standard shock, rubber, washer, body, rubber, washer, nut and lock washer. And I think I put everything in the right direction. The KYBs had a thinner and wider side on the rubber and I was able to tightly snug the wider side of the rubber towards the body on the bottom and the top.

Nice! And you, too, enjoyed the experience of getting wrenches onto those top nuts......

Neil