Transmission is generally working fine. Just notice that when I'm upshifting from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs (4000+) it will grind. If I let the RPMs come down a bit (below 3000 or so) before shifting to 2nd there is never a grind. And all other gears are fine. Not worth taking out the transmission at this point but just curious what would cause this issue.

worn synchronizer ring

What's the work required to remove the transmission versus the engine and transmission? I have to fix my transmission and may do a respray/color change on the car (not sure yet about the respray though - but if I do I'd like to paint the engine bay if I do it). So I was thinking about removing engine and transmission. Seems more comfortable to use an engine lifter than try to get under the car and drop the tranny. Just don't want it to be 5x more work!

I've never removed the transmission by itself, but removing the engine and transmission together was less work than removing the engine by itself - and wasn't that bad. I'm not skilled. It took me a half a day of carefully disconnecting everything and documenting it with pictures and a couple of hours the next day to pull the engine and transmission together.

Well, either way you still need to get under the car to disconnect things like the driveshaft, trans mount, reverse switch etc.
In terms of time I feel for me the engine with trans would be more time, mainly due to time spent messing with the exhaust system, hood, motor mounts, electrics, draining fluids, fuel lines, radiator, car height and potentially damaging things with the engine/trans swinging around.

With a floor jack and a few socket extensions and universals to reach the starter and top bell housing bolts I personally don't find the trans to be too bad.

-G

P.S. Ive found having two of this type of universal to be the best:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-s ... 923765000P

grrrdot wrote:Well, either way you still need to get under the car to disconnect things like the driveshaft, trans mount, reverse switch etc.
In terms of time I feel for me the engine with trans would be more time, mainly due to time spent messing with the exhaust system, hood, motor mounts, electrics, draining fluids, fuel lines, radiator, car height and potentially damaging things with the engine/trans swinging around.

With a floor jack and a few socket extensions and universals to reach the starter and top bell housing bolts I personally don't find the trans to be too bad.

-G

P.S. Ive found having two of this type of universal to be the best:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-s ... 923765000P

Sounds good. I'm going to go with removing the transmission only. Just have to figure out how to get enough ground clearance to get it out.

Jack stands and/or ramps will give enough clearance.

Nanonevol wrote:Jack stands and/or ramps will give enough clearance.

Cool. I'll probably use ramps on the front for most of the work. Then maybe jackstands on the back as well to actually slide out the transmission.

Richard