I got nothing

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:33 pm

Drove the car last week and it started right away and ran great. Today, I put the key in the ignition and 1. the key seemed like it didn't want to turn, and 2. nothing happened. I turned on the headlights and they aren't working, but the horn sounds. The key hole is aligned to position I and will not turn to position 0 and barely seems to move toward position II. I checked the battery with a charging unit and when I pressed the "battery test" it said 70%. I don't have the manual for this charger so I really don't know if that is information about the battery in the charger or the car battery. I then turned the wheels until the steering wheel locked and then was able to turn the key enough to get it to unlock - with a little giggling.

Going out now to check the age of the battery, but the first mechanic who looked at the car several months ago did say he thought I needed to replace it - he didn't elaborate on why.

If anyone has any thoughts, I'd greatly appreciate them. I just got the car back and it's been running great so I was a little ticked off when it I couldn't drive it. Thanks!

ORFORD2004 · Post by **ORFORD2004** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:09 pm

Try to boost the car and if he don't start I suspect the switch.

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:16 pm

If the switch will not physically turn then you have a broken switch. Turn it and shake the steering wheel, if the wheel is unlocked and it still won't turn then either take it apart and figure out what is keeping it from turning or replace it altogether.

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:36 pm

Would headlight operation be affected by the ignition switch?

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:38 pm

dreavis wrote:Would headlight operation be affected by the ignition switch?

Yep. Headlights run through the ignition switch. The side marker lights bypass the ignition switch when they are on (and the headlights are off, the intermediate position of the switch).

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:58 pm

Strangely, that information makes me feel better.

Frog2Spider · Post by **Frog2Spider** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:40 am

Just my 2 cents worth.

Testing a battery for its 'volts' means very little with regard to the battery's condition. A 'load test' must be done, to find the battery cranking power. I'd remove the battery and take it to an auto parts or battery store, and have it checked.

True, if the key won't turn, the ignition switch is broken, and replacing it with a new one is your best option. Just remember that the battery may also need replacing.

Finialy, the current to the headlights that runs through the ignition switch, can easily be fixed by 'relaying' the headlight circuit. The result will be brighter headlights, and that high current won't be running through the switch.

Hope you are back on the road soon!

johnsje6 · Post by **johnsje6** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:56 am

Speaking as someone who had to drill out an ignition switch when the key became stuck in it - I would recommend removing the switch from the mounting before it fails completely. If there is a mechanical problem in the switch that causes it to not operate the electrical contacts, that could cause your symptoms. It is a real PITA to remove a switch after it fails mechanically, trust me on that one - and replacement switches are readily available, got mine from Auto Ricambi and am very happy with it.

tartan18 · Post by **tartan18** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 11:38 am

Concur with John J ... drilling out a ignition switch is difficult but not impossible. As I was putting my car back together after a complete paint job I couldn't find a switched 12v source. Tracing circuits I discovered that the ignition switch did not pick up the switched 12v feed. I replaced the faulty switch with a new one from Auto Ricambi (a Lada) and now everything works correctly.

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 2:43 pm

If you do drill or pound the switch out don't forgot to disconnect the battery first.

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 3:52 pm

Thanks for the great advice. I'll remove the ignition switch tomorrow and order a new one.

What would cause this thing to work one day and then not work after a week without use? It seems like something like this might fail during use. I suppose it could have happened the last time I removed the key and then didn't realize it until I tried to use it again.

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Thu Sep 10, 2015 3:53 pm

dreavis wrote:Thanks for the great advice. I'll remove the ignition switch tomorrow and order a new one.

What would cause this thing to work one day and then not work after a week without use? It seems like something like this might fail during use. I suppose it could have happened the last time I removed the key and then didn't realize it until I tried to use it again.

It's ancient ....that's the only answer I can give. They fall apart on the inside, something finally corroded and broke.

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:32 pm

OK. I disconnected the negative battery terminal, then the connections to the ignition switch. I removed the plastic cowl around the steering column and the two screws in the ignition switch. Following the instructions I saw in the video, I turned the key clockwise and depressed the spring mechanism in the ignition switch. The ignition switch started to come out, but then stopped after moving 1/4"-3/8." When it slides in and out, it clearly sounds like it's hitting something (metal on metal) that is preventing it from sliding out.

It seems like the spring catch inside is releasing. I assume you have to turn the key to release something inside the mechanism and allow the ignition switch to slide out. Perhaps the key turn is not doing its job.

Any and all thought would be appreciated.
Thanks!
(For the first three minutes of this operation everything seemed so simple.)

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:34 pm

I don't know what video you watched but you have to get the key in a certain position so it will fully release; however, if your switch is internally damaged, which I think we concluded it is, you may not be rotating it to the position marked. Get your fiddle out, you might be fiddling with it...

It is sort of goofy to remove in the first place, I've never had one slide right out. It seems you always have a combination of shaking it, moving it back and forth, moving the steering wheel, and the thing comes out. I also recall having to depress that locking thing on the side with my fourth arm to get it all out.

And once I used a progression of drill bits from 5/8 through 3/4" and just busted the thing to pieces because it wouldn't come out. IIRC I was angry enough to use a giant hammer drill, just to show it who was boss.

dreavis · Post by **dreavis** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 12:08 am

After some patience, I managed to get the key to a spot where I heard a click. Then I pulled a couple times and suddenly it released. I installed a new one I got from Allison's and she started right up!

Thanks for all the advice! Also thanks to Greg at Allison's - very helpful.

I got nothing

I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing

Re: I got nothing