What I learned while cutting the rear springs

bran100 · Post by **bran100** » Wed Aug 27, 2014 1:18 am

Cut 1 1/2 coils from the rear today. Amazed at how easy that was.

With all 4 wheels on the ground, I unbolted the top of the shock.
Jacked up one side of the rear with a jack under the lower shock mount
Placed a jack stand in the standard jack location
Loosen the e-brake adjustment nut completely
Remove tire
Lower the jack completely, watching the brake lines to insure there's no tension
Unbolt the lower shock mount
Wiggle spring and shock out very easily
When replacing, leave the shock tension strap in place, but replace the rubber bushing at the top
Slide spring and shock in place insuring spring mounting cups are rotated appropriately
Install lower shock bolt
Jack up the assembly using the lower shock mount as the jacking point
Cut the shock tension strap
Install top mounting washer, bushing and nuts
Install tire
adjust the e-brake
Remove jack stands
Lower jack completely

Probably less than an hour per side. Unfortunately it's raining so I'm not inclined to drive it today. Next, I need to cut another 1/2 coil from the front to level it out.

BellaMachina604 · Post by **BellaMachina604** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:03 pm

Here's what I learned cutting the rear springs 1 1/2 coils:

1) Jacked up the car with rear wheel removed
2) Used outboard spring compressor to compress the spring
3) Cut the coil off with a small grinder, 1/2 coil at a time; removed coil pieces
4) Moved bottom spring mount around until it matched bottom of spring
5) Loosened compressor until spring seated into lower mount
6) Mounted wheel; lowered jack
7) Repeated other side

Took 15 mins per side, no need to remove shock or spring from car.

pchdesign · Post by **pchdesign** » Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:48 pm

I'm going to be cutting my coils here within the next couple of weeks but I haven't really looked at them. Is it obvious which end to cut? Top or bottom?

thanks.

brackie1 · Post by **brackie1** » Sun Dec 13, 2015 8:36 pm

I lowered my car by putting the car on a rack and heating the coils and while hot and soft was able to pull the car down in small increments until I got it where I wanted it. Lowered it 1 1/2". Worked great.

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Sun Dec 13, 2015 10:10 pm

There is always the option of just using lowering clamps to see if this is really what you want.

About $12 a set for lowering 2 springs so $24 to lower the whole car and it can be undone, fine tuned, etc.

https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1054873/01447

Nanonevol · Post by **Nanonevol** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 8:39 am

There is always the option of just using lowering clamps to see if this is really what you want.

Good idea! I never heard of that. Looks like a lot less work also. I suppose I'd still need a spring compressor?

brackie1 · Post by **brackie1** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:54 pm

actually once the springs have cooled they will stay in place. you will have to put the car on a lift so that you can easily get to the springs. you can use the spring compressor to bring it down once the coil has softened. I learned the trick from a friend who builds race cars. But once it's done its done.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:46 pm

you have the possibility of the spring breaking at the spot it was heated.

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:25 am

Nanonevol wrote:
There is always the option of just using lowering clamps to see if this is really what you want.
Good idea! I never heard of that. Looks like a lot less work also. I suppose I'd still need a spring compressor?

Or just put a bag of sand in the trunk to one side and jack up that wheel installing the clamps when the spring is compressed enough.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:10 am

I think Mark is right. If you heat spring material to the point of softness, you change the composition by driving alloying elements out of the heated area, most likely increasing the brittleness of the spring a great deal.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:11 am

double posted for some reason

Nanonevol · Post by **Nanonevol** » Tue Dec 15, 2015 8:21 am

Or just put a bag of sand in the trunk to one side and jack up that wheel installing the clamps when the spring is compressed enough.

Thank you Diesel. This is sounding like an easier and cheaper project than ever.

brackie1 · Post by **brackie1** » Sat Dec 19, 2015 11:26 pm

I guess all of that is true but it has been 6 months and 6,000 miles and still good.

DieselSpider · Post by **DieselSpider** » Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:52 am

brackie1 wrote:I guess all of that is true but it has been 6 months and 6,000 miles and still good.

Some get away with it while others don't so it can be luck of the draw. Do you feel lucky? In truth it can also be due to how you have the flame on the torch set as too much oxygen can leave things more brittle than a slightly richer mix.

PMcG · Post by **PMcG** » Thu Dec 24, 2015 8:53 pm

Learning how to cut the spring is interesting but what happens to the handling of the car if you lower the back by one and a half coils. Where does the roll centre go?

What I learned while cutting the rear springs

What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs

Re: What I learned while cutting the rear springs