My 78 Spider will start up and drive fine all day. When its hot and sitting a long red light sometimes it dies. It will be idling smooth and then just cut off. It then will not start until it cools down a little. If I stop briefly like at a stop sign or a short light it is fine. I have not been able to replicate this problem in my drive way. I have replaced the idle cutoff solenoid and I am going to look at it today. Has anybody had a similar problem?
I pulled the idle cutoff solenoid and cleaned the jets. I think they were not clogged though. I got it hot enough in my drive way to cut off. It was idling for about 15 or 20 minutes at about 1000 RPM (I know a little high) and the fan cycled on and off a few times. Then it started to run a little rough and the engine ran at about 500 RPM before it cut off.
Engine Dies When Idleing When Hot
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azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: Engine Dies When Idleing When Hot
first determine if you still have spark. carry a spare plug with you. when it is dead, pull a spark plug wire, put in on the spare plug, ground the threads to the valve cover bolt and look for spark. Dont forget to wear gloves. You can also just put one of the plug wires and see if it will jump to ground. check mag pickup under the cap. look at condition of cap and rotor (cracks and expand with heat). Ignition module is heat sensitive and needs a good contact to the heat sink.
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paintdudeluke
Re: Engine Dies When Idleing When Hot
There's a couple roads you might go down.
1] Look for vacume leaks. It might lean out too far when its hot and a vacume leak starts bleeding in.
2] It might be something like a coil getting hot and failing until it cools down, or the electrical like mentioned in the above post.
3] It might be vapor lock actually. If you have a hot spot in the line and it vaporizes (kinda like boiling out) until it cools down a few degrees. Hard to say, but with FI there's a constant fuel flowing in a loop so, never-mind, that's not it.
I had a jeep that started doing what you are describing, it was the intake manifold bolts getting loose. When it got hot enough and at idle, the vacume leaks killed it. You can find a vacume leak by spraying starting fluid around suspect areas and listen for a jump in idle speed. Also remember, if a vac leak is on the engine side of the MAF sensor, if it has a loose clamp, a rough idle might be giggling it and let in just enough air to allow the meter to close too far and that will kill the fuel pump power. Its a fail-safe measure in the schematic.
Just as an experiment, turn your idle up a little bit (150 rpm) and see if it still does it. My vote is a vacume leak somewhere.
1] Look for vacume leaks. It might lean out too far when its hot and a vacume leak starts bleeding in.
2] It might be something like a coil getting hot and failing until it cools down, or the electrical like mentioned in the above post.
3] It might be vapor lock actually. If you have a hot spot in the line and it vaporizes (kinda like boiling out) until it cools down a few degrees. Hard to say, but with FI there's a constant fuel flowing in a loop so, never-mind, that's not it.
I had a jeep that started doing what you are describing, it was the intake manifold bolts getting loose. When it got hot enough and at idle, the vacume leaks killed it. You can find a vacume leak by spraying starting fluid around suspect areas and listen for a jump in idle speed. Also remember, if a vac leak is on the engine side of the MAF sensor, if it has a loose clamp, a rough idle might be giggling it and let in just enough air to allow the meter to close too far and that will kill the fuel pump power. Its a fail-safe measure in the schematic.
Just as an experiment, turn your idle up a little bit (150 rpm) and see if it still does it. My vote is a vacume leak somewhere.