Head gasket project

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:16 am

Hey,

After a year of getting the nerve to start, I have begun! So far so good... I've been following the manual step by step and all is well. I'm at a point where I need advice... I'm about the disconnect the FI fuel line/rail and it mentions how to use a pump and apply approx. 25lbs of pressure to push the fuel back into the tank. I assume to release pressure. When I disconnect the line is fuel going to rush out? Can I use a compressor set at 25lbs and blow it back? Any trick to this since I don't have a hand pump that will work for me? Please warn me of any other steps that you feel will be helpful as I progress. The manual is fine but first hand experience is what I need to be hearing too.

My project will be entertaining to you pros, stay tuned.

Later,
Bill

ventura ace · Post by **ventura ace** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:09 pm

BIll,
If you are smoking, just put out your cigarette, then go ahead and release the pressure. A little fuel will come out, if there is still pressure on the system, but chances are that there may be no pressure at all if your car has been sitting for a day or so.

alvon

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:23 pm

I've never heard of trying to force all of the fuel back into the tank. The pump is supposed to have a check valve in the outlet to hold pressure at rest, so it would be impossible to pump the fuel back through it.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:19 pm

Thanks... I'll move forward without performing this step. It was in the manual so I just wanted to run it by the pros..

Thanks..
Bill

bandit · Post by **bandit** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:03 pm

Interesting never herd of that one before !

Dan

spiderrey · Post by **spiderrey** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:47 pm

isnt there a release valve for the pressure, like the air valve on a tire?

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:02 pm

I spent this evening taging all wire connections so I'll know where which wire goes where. Next, I'll remove Fi fuel connections.

Later,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:10 pm

make a note of how the harness is routed to the thermotime switch under the intake. If you route it differently upon reassembly the harness doesn't reach the switch.

Rey-the Spider didn't have a schrader valve on the FI like so many of the modern cars. Makes it a pain to test fuel pressure.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:21 pm

I'm about to remove the nut holding the crankshaft pully. It says I need to block the flywheel against turning. I anticipate this being difficult and was wondering if there are any tips on how to do this.

Thanks...
Bill

pertyfly · Post by **pertyfly** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:31 pm

If at all possible I HIGHLY suggest an impact wrench. I just did this, and I had my impact set on high. This way, it doesn't need to be held. It shocks it so fast that the nut comes off without turning the crank at all.

Otherwise, what I've done in the past (which needs 2 people and it's often very hard) is to put a lark screwdriver or bar of some sort against the flywheel and a part of the engine and do this. It's never damaged a flywheel yet.

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:13 pm

Well on my way to head removal. So far I've got most things disconnected and today I removed the bolts that held the turbo to the exhaust manafold. Really tight fit but did it without incident. The puzzling thing was getting the timing cover pieces removed. Yikes this was a task that still has me a bit puzzled. how the heck do you get the back side piece next to engine off? front no problem but the rear section on drivers side is not coming off. Does the crank pulley have anything to do with it? Mostly little bolts in front an behind but this side still won't budge. I've put off this piece and the next thing I've got to buy a 38mm socket to remove crank... I've been delaying this since it looks like a stubborn task where I'm gonna need another person to hold the flywheel, right? All 10 head bolts came off easy too. I used liquid wrench on this project (2) applications and let it sink in for several days, very pleased with the results!

Recap of Questions above:
1. Back side of timing cover giving me troubles does the crank have to come off before I get this piece off?
2. When ready to actually remove head how should I go about lifting it off? Do you think it is stuck together? My first experience so I have no idea what to expect. I plan to hide my hammer!
3. Any other advice you think I need, I'm listening..

Going right by the book and taking it one step at a time marking everything no matter what!

Later,
Bill

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:18 pm

the crank pulley does need to be removed to get the rear timing cover plates off.
If the manifolds are still on the head, they give plenty of leverage for breaking the head loose. Have one person on each side of the engine bay to lift the head off. Use some heavy cardboard as a fender cover then hand the head over to that side, Then the two of you can lift the head onto a work bench.

Just a tip when reassembling; use anti-seize on all of those exhaust and turbo bolts. Also, use a tap to clean all of the head bolt threads in the block. That will help give an accurate torque reading

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 10:41 am

Thanks... that was the info I needed. Both manfolds are intact and I will do as you said, sounds good and great advice. I'm determined to do this right and was curious how to separate them if they resisted. I will take your avice and clean the bolt holes and apply anti-sieze for sure.

Slow but surely...
Bill

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:51 am

Where can I purchase a 38mm socket for the crank? The book says it's a 38mm and I'm having trouble locating a socket. Sears didn't have it and Home Depot didn't either. My next stop is the auto parts store. Also, is the crank reverse threaded or is it lefty loosey? May be a dumb question but several people have asked me if it was reverse threaded and it's got me wondering too.

Thanks for the info in advance.
Bill

pertyfly · Post by **pertyfly** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:46 am

I believe Mark posted the standard conversion of this. 38mm = exactly 1-1/2".

I just did mine a couple days ago. It is definitely a standard thread, and the 1.5" fits perfectly. It came off in a snap.

1.5" sockets are everywhere.

Chris