Breaking in the new iengine

[bran100]

Seen a few topics on the forum, and have read a few articles, however, I'm looking for definitive answers on how to break in my new rebuild

New bearings, pistons, rings, cams, flywheel and clutch. Used engine assembly lube on all surfaces during assembly. I'll fill the cam boxes with oil. Oil filter is pre-filled with oil.

Questions:
What engine oil should I use?
Should I turn over the engine a few times with coil disconnected to circulate oil?
Once I start it, what should I do as it pertains to RPM and load?
When should I change the oil?

Any other advice greatly appreciated.
Brandon

[Tobi]

It's better to prime the oil pump because than you should not need to turn over the whole motor to get your pressure.
After starting you should keep it between 2 and 3k rpm for the first 20 to 30 min. It is better to do that on the road, driving the car so when I did it, I made sure the timing was right and than took her for a spin around the block with a few stops to check on things.
I used Valvoline Racing 10W 30 ( high zinc) for the first half hour and than drained it, changed the filter and filled in
Valvoline Racing 20W 50 (high zinc again)
Next oil change should be at 500 miles and some change it at 1000 miles again.
For the break in you will get a lot of different opinions.
I believe it is best to take it slow for the first 500 to 700 miles.
I try not to drive with the same rpm the whole time so I shift a lot. I try not to reeve it up high and not to drive it like a grandpa or like I stole it.
Also make sure your fuel lines don't leak at first start and it does not hurt to have a fire extinguisher handy.
Check the oil for coolant and the coolant for oil and everything that could leak.
Check on the belts and make sure they are still tide.
Make sure you burped the water system right and the fan works.
I put 110 miles on mine now and everything works perfect but just noticed that my belt (water pump/alternator) is a bit loose but the pulleys seem fine.

[So Cal Mark]

good advice. Joe Gibbs makes a great break-in oil that has extra zinc in it for the cam break-in

[TX82FIAT]

A good 30 weight oil with added Zinc will work for break in.

[majicwrench]

I think Hastings has a wonderful article on the web about break-in. Basicly you want to run it fairly hard and not keep it at same rpm. But my grey matter is old, you should try to find the article. I'm not that crazy about changing your oil over and over again. Your filter is gonna take out debris. Thin oil lubes SOOOOOOO much better than thick oil. According to those that know about these things, zinc is good. I wouldn't worry much about priming system but it certainly isn't gong to hurt it to do so. Hopefully engine is well lubed upon assembly, should be ready to fire and run.
I would make darn sure cooling system full before starting. Take your time. All sorts of diff ways to bleed em.
Keith

[bran100]

Thanks for all the great info.

Is this the Hastings article?
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/ ... cedure.htm

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.

[majicwrench]

That is not the article to which I refer. But that is the gist of it.
Keith

[So Cal Mark]

Hastings makes piston rings and that's what their procedure is for. Cam break-in is a complete different procedure and extremely important. I'd recommend priming the system and filling the cam boxes with oil before attempting to start the engine. If you don't prime the engine, don't fill the cam boxes and merely rely on assembly lube on the cam, the paste will be wiped off after the first few revolutions of the engine. You then have unprotected cam lobes until oil is pumped into the top of the engine. That's enough to damage the cam and it will quickly fail.

[bran100]

So how do you prime the engine?

[So Cal Mark]

turn the oil pump without turning the engine

[Tobi]

I removed the aux pulley and the bolt and used an old sharpy, inserted in the bolt hole like a bolt and used a drill (clockwise) on the other end. It took less than a minute.

[majicwrench]

Did the Fiat factory prime the engines prior to starting them??? Obviously I have no way of knowing, but I would bet not.
Keith

[BEEK]

fiat can afford failure, its called warranty. imho, i always prime an engine that i build. i always prime my race motors before ever starting them every time, i heat the oil and circulate, and continue until oil is up to temperature and everything is lubed. then i stick the oil pump belt on and crank the engine. sure i dont have to, but how much does failure cost?

[bran100]

So it sounds like I need to remove the timing belt and the aux pulley to prime the motor. That sucks.

[majicwrench]

Well, to each his or her own. I can't recall the last time I primed a motor. As a disclaimer I can't recall the last Fiat engine I rebuilt, likely in the '70s. I do know that of all the engines I have rebuilt, from Volvo to Chevy, I have never had a cam quickly fail, or fail for that matter. And GM actually tells you NOT to prime, but that is because of the hydralic lifters so it does not apply to our discussion.
Certainly prime if you feel like it, like I said earlier, it is not going to hurt to do so.
Keith

PS One very nice thing about priming on the engine stand......it will show you right away that you can build oil pressure and it will show you right away if you left out an oil galley plug. I remember a Vega motor about 78 I installed, fired up, only to have oil pouring out that back. Jeesh. If I would have primed it on the stand....