To get my fuel pump working again only when the engine is on I removed the AFM and adjusted. Now the fuel pump contact is open when the flap is closed and runs when the flap opens slightly. I noticed when I removed the cover off the AFM that the inside looks like it was painted or something. Some pieces look white including the adjustment screw.



Was thinking about cleaning it up and maybe painting the outside of the AFM box. My question is what kind of paint should I use on this piece? And should I only paint the black box and the actual AFM (the unpainted part) clean up maybe with a brass wire wheel?

If you can, wire wheel the white residue off.
I've painted mine. I taped off the black top, electrical conection, and the two ends. Cleaned with brake cleaner,& let dry. Sprayed with sandable primer,let dry (about an hour). Sprayed with aluminium colour and dry. After several hours a coat of spray clear coat. Colour goes kind of pewter but looks fine and the clear makes wiping any future residue/oil easy.

Just did the same to a brake booster I put in.

narfire wrote:If you can, wire wheel the white residue off.
I've painted mine. I taped off the black top, electrical conection, and the two ends. Cleaned with brake cleaner,& let dry. Sprayed with sandable primer,let dry (about an hour). Sprayed with aluminium colour and dry. After several hours a coat of spray clear coat. Colour goes kind of pewter but looks fine and the clear makes wiping any future residue/oil easy.

Just did the same to a brake booster I put in.

Do you have a picture? I'd love to see.

The parts are at home. I'll take a pic tonight.
Chris

See if these help


Adjusted sweep arm to a clean section of track

Excellent pictures thanks. Was it easy to adjust the sweep arm to move to a new track? Can I adjust without removing the AFM from the black box section? I didn't want to have to order a new gasket (or can the 2 sections be seperated without replacing the gasket?). Also glad I can see the picture from above to see silver arm that moves the fuel pump contact. I think the PO bent mine so it was always connected so I'll use your picture to determine how much to bend it back.

rjkoop wrote: Was it easy to adjust the sweep arm to move to a new track

I'd say it was rather easy. I loosened the bolt you see in the pic and with a bit of effort managed to get the sweep arm assembly off the shaft. One has to take the electrical conection out first though..small phillips screws. I cleaned the contacts on the bottom with Q-tip and carb cleaner and then slid the assembly back on, watching where the contacts are in relation to a clean section of track. Tightened up and we'll see tonight or tomorrow how I fared..
I'm not sure what you mean buy removing the AFM from the black box section. The black top does come off with a box cutter, bandages, possibly sutures, and effort. A THIN strip of rtv or similar when you put it back on.
Looks like the silver arm should have the contact open when engine is not running. A safety feature if in an accident. One really does not want the fuel pump to continue to run when the engine has stopped.

narfire wrote:

rjkoop wrote: Was it easy to adjust the sweep arm to move to a new track

I'd say it was rather easy. I loosened the bolt you see in the pic and with a bit of effort managed to get the sweep arm assembly off the shaft. One has to take the electrical conection out first though..small phillips screws. I cleaned the contacts on the bottom with Q-tip and carb cleaner and then slid the assembly back on, watching where the contacts are in relation to a clean section of track. Tightened up and we'll see tonight or tomorrow how I fared..
I'm not sure what you mean buy removing the AFM from the black box section. The black top does come off with a box cutter, bandages, possibly sutures, and effort. A THIN strip of rtv or similar when you put it back on.
Looks like the silver arm should have the contact open when engine is not running. A safety feature if in an accident. One really does not want the fuel pump to continue to run when the engine has stopped.

I mean removing the 4 bolts that hold the 2 main pieces together that have a gasket in between. I just didn't feel like replacing the gasket.

The 4 bolts came out easily. I have the K&N filter but same thing I suppose as original. The gasket on mine stayed intact. If you do take it off and it rips, a car parts jobber store would have gasket material to make a new one.