Hi,

I should have everything I need this weekend: It's time to contemplate completing my interior refurb by mounting the new (IAP, tan, now with black-dyed sill caps) door panels.

I'll be replacing the vent window gaskets, the window channels, the outer window rubber, the door weatherstripping, and the driver's window regulator.

I've read about people using split rivets to mount the inner felts to the door panels: What's wrong with pop rivets?

There has to be a secret handshake among those who've done more than one regulator replacement, anyone care to break the pact of silence?

I'd also like to pull the non-turning passenger lock cylinder for inspection and repair: ???

Can anyone offer any other tips or hints?

Thanks,
Mark

When I had mine apart years ago, I cleaned the inside bottom of the door. Scraped and vacumed then sprayed with that wax sealer I think I had bought at IAP. Thinking that any water that gets in the inside sill would eventually cause issues. There is a drain hole or two ,but nothing to spray some goo of some sort in there.
When taking the door handle off, I'd have one of those extendable magnet thingies handy as one of the 8mm? nuts usually drops to the bottom. Very carefull with the plastic ends on the locking rod, they get brittle and can break easily when prying off.

I'll be replacing the vent window gaskets

Mark, I've heard this isn't easy. Do you have the "gaskets" already? Please post how the job goes.

It's on my list somewhere.

Thanks,

I plan on shaving my handles off when I finish the body work.

just make sure you dont shave the inside ones also AND leave your windows down!

narfire wrote:When I had mine apart years ago, I cleaned the inside bottom of the door. Scraped and vacumed then sprayed with that wax sealer I think I had bought at IAP. Thinking that any water that gets in the inside sill would eventually cause issues. There is a drain hole or two ,but nothing to spray some goo of some sort in there.
When taking the door handle off, I'd have one of those extendable magnet thingies handy as one of the 8mm? nuts usually drops to the bottom. Very carefull with the plastic ends on the locking rod, they get brittle and can break easily when prying off.

Hi,

Great advice about the cleaning and sealing; thanks!

...I'd never had, nor needed, one of those magnets on an antennae, but I bought one before I did my carb swap and must have used it half-a-dozen times in the first hour!

Thanks,
Mark

Exit98 wrote:

I'll be replacing the vent window gaskets

Mark, I've heard this isn't easy. Do you have the "gaskets" already? Please post how the job goes.

It's on my list somewhere.

Thanks,

Hi,

The vent window gaskets are the last piece of the puzzle, I expect them tomorrow or Monday: Back-ordered when I had the interior gutted... suddenly 20% off, at IAP. I've read about the troubles, I think I get it, and there was "much inertia" in doing "it" without that last piece.

After all the work on the interior, the door panels will make it "look" perfect. (Teak veneer dash?)

Then, the engine rebuild... I'm thinking big valve head and cams this spring, bottom end rebuild next.

Thanks,
Mark

rodman wrote:I plan on shaving my handles off when I finish the body work.

...Not even a "landing strip"?

"The vent window gaskets are the last piece of the puzzle, I expect them tomorrow or Monday: Back-ordered when I had the interior gutted... suddenly 20% off, at IAP. I've read about the troubles, I think I get it, and there was "much inertia" in doing "it" without that last piece."

Possibly one of my old posts regarding the gaskets? I could not be happier with the 30+ year old original gaskets I picked from a parts car (sad, the rubber quality of the 70's far exceeds what is offered today). That $75 was the biggest waste of money I've ever spent on my spider.

As someone who regularly water tests a wide range of commercial window assemblies for performance standards and leakage investigations according to ASTM standards, the lack of weep holes in the repo gaskets actually increases the likelihood of water intrusion into the cabin.

manoa matt wrote:Possibly one of my old posts regarding the gaskets? [...]

Yes, I think so.

[...]the lack of weep holes in the repo gaskets actually increases the likelihood of water intrusion into the cabin.

"...¿Que?"

I avoid water like the plague in my Spider; a completely new interior with dry and cracked rubber in such an obvious place just won't do...

Thanks,
Mark

As for the rivets.iused poprivets and pushed out the pin then
Flattened the rivet with vicegrips

Hope this helps

I miss being on here

124JOE wrote:As for the rivets.iused poprivets and pushed out the pin then
Flattened the rivet with vicegrips

Hope this helps

I miss being on here

Hi Joe,

Thanks!

Why the flattening?

Ciao,
Mark

+1 to what Matt says about the vent window gaskets. Be patient and find yourself a solid pair off a parts car. The fit will be like night and day. I found some online from Auto Italia in CA. And I can actually open and close the vents to boot!

i would flatten the rivets so it dont scrach the window

Hi,

Distractions this winter have been many and time consuming... Just now getting to it.

How the heck do I get the window frames out of the larger frame piece?

Will I have to drill the rivets at the pivot?

Thanks,
Mark