Hi All,

It's been a procrastinator's dream, but after ten years, my 81 FI is alive, thanks to many in the forum along the way.

I have a couple questions on final adjustments.

1. Engine and head were tore down,(by a knowledgeable friend) new valves, one with a new cut seat angle, seals etc. Head did not need resurfacing. I hear some valve slap, so am about to undergo my first try at the valve adjustment. I read plenty of good threads on the topic, but didn't know if I should put a dozen miles or maybe more miles on it to break it in before measuring the clearance (I will do it cold)? She runs great, except for an occasional miss mainly noticeable at idle. I am thinking. It's electrical so FI connector or distributor as timing cams, crank are dead on and she runs well really good torque. So do I break her in for a bit or just do the valve adjustment measurement now? Also will I spill oil removing the cam cover plates to take my measurements so I can order shims? I am not sure if removing the cover also could break free the cam box bottom gasket?

2. What is the recommendation on when and how to re-torque the head bolts?

3. Engine temp when driving stays at 190, climbs a bit above that then fan kicks in as it should, but the engine compartment gets what seems to me as too hot. All surfaces are uncomfortable to the touch. For example intake manifold cover is hotter than I can tolerate touching, so knowing 150F is too hot to touch, I would assume it's around 135 or more. Is that normal? Air intake is stock, exhaust manifold heat shield I in place. Cooling system is burpped and working fine, top and bottom radiator hoses are hot.

4. There seems to be two types of Bosch FI connectors available, The local parts store has one they say works in place of the box shaped connector, but I am not sure I believe them. The one they want to sell me has more of a curved or fluted side on it. I am thinking I'll just order from the forum suppliers, but was curious if anyone ever used one of curved ones?

Thanks in advance.

I hear some valve slap, so am about to undergo my first try at the valve adjustment. ... I should put a dozen miles or maybe more miles on it to break it in before measuring the clearance (I will do it cold)?

You should have shimmed the valves to specs before running it for the first time. Do it now.

2. What is the recommendation on when and how to re-torque the head bolts?

Follow the gasket manufacturer's recommendation. Some specify a re-torque, others don't

3. Engine temp when driving stays at 190, climbs a bit above that then fan kicks in as it should, but the engine compartment gets what seems to me as too hot. All surfaces are uncomfortable to the touch. For example intake manifold cover is hotter than I can tolerate touching...

You're fine. Coolant runs thru the intake, remember? That's what vaporizes the fuel.

Can't help you with #4, that new-fangled stuff

we need a "+1" emoticon. 'cuz I couldn't agree more with Baltobernie, about all of it.

especially this part:

baltobernie wrote: Can't help you with #4, that new-fangled stuff

[/quote]You should have shimmed the valves to specs before running it for the first time. Do it now.[/quote]

Yes they were originally adjusted by the mechanic who replaced the valves, before I put the car back together. I called it 'slap' but may have been overly critical with my choice of words. Regardless, I want to be sure they are right. Will check them today thanks.

Easy to get anxious with a new engine, everybody does. Y'know, the Fiat TC doesn't have any hydraulic compensation on the valves, so it's going to sound a little "mechanical", even when in spec. I kinda like it.