Suspension suggestions
Suspension suggestions
After getting my '79 back on the road this week, it's evident I'm going to need to do some suspension work in the near future.
All the front suspension bushings are visibly cracked and I've got some real creaking and groaning going on. It's probably related to the bushing issue, as I don't seem to have any slop in the ball joints, or wheel bearings.
However, in contemplating a front suspension rebuild, it brings up a couple of questions.
Does anyone sell an upgraded polyurethane bushing kit, or a complete bushing kit?
Once I tear into the front end far enough to replace all the bushings, should I just go ahead and do the ball joints and wheel bearings? The parts seem cheap compared to the time it will take to take it apart.
My shocks look like the originals, too. They seem to rebound correctly, but again, at that level of disassembly, maybe I should just do shocks as well?
Since I'm talking about a '79, I had thought about lowering springs so that there wasn't quite so much room above the tires in the wheel wells. I've since read about cutting the stock springs on here. Does anyone have any type of reference for approximate lowering height of cutting stock springs? I saw a reference to cutting one whole coil. Is the preferred method of cutting springs just to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel?
Thanks,
Rick
All the front suspension bushings are visibly cracked and I've got some real creaking and groaning going on. It's probably related to the bushing issue, as I don't seem to have any slop in the ball joints, or wheel bearings.
However, in contemplating a front suspension rebuild, it brings up a couple of questions.
Does anyone sell an upgraded polyurethane bushing kit, or a complete bushing kit?
Once I tear into the front end far enough to replace all the bushings, should I just go ahead and do the ball joints and wheel bearings? The parts seem cheap compared to the time it will take to take it apart.
My shocks look like the originals, too. They seem to rebound correctly, but again, at that level of disassembly, maybe I should just do shocks as well?
Since I'm talking about a '79, I had thought about lowering springs so that there wasn't quite so much room above the tires in the wheel wells. I've since read about cutting the stock springs on here. Does anyone have any type of reference for approximate lowering height of cutting stock springs? I saw a reference to cutting one whole coil. Is the preferred method of cutting springs just to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel?
Thanks,
Rick
i hear mention of clamping a few of the coils in the middle to lower it. Sounds weird to me, but if you want a lower stiffer ride, then I guess it could work. Neither of these ideas sound like a great solution if you race in any sort of way, but for general driving I don't see either being a big problem.
I wondered about poly bushing kits as well.
I wondered about poly bushing kits as well.
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
The poly bushings are only available for the sway bar. It is easy to replace the outer sway bar bushings, you have to seperate the brackets on the inner sway bar bushings, a bit more involved.
The shocks can be replaced at anytime even with everything assembled, you just need to raise the car enough so the shock will drop out of the lower A arm.
Definatly replace the lower ball joints, consider replacing the uppers if there is play or you have the money, the parts are cheap.
Clean the A arms well when you have them disassembled. Check for cracks around mounting points. Also check for warpage of the A arm around the ball joint mounting or excessive alignment shims. These indicate the need for replacement.
Unless the wheel bearings are severly worn or missing rollers they can be cleaned, repacked with good grease, and tightened and adjusted.
The shocks can be replaced at anytime even with everything assembled, you just need to raise the car enough so the shock will drop out of the lower A arm.
Definatly replace the lower ball joints, consider replacing the uppers if there is play or you have the money, the parts are cheap.
Clean the A arms well when you have them disassembled. Check for cracks around mounting points. Also check for warpage of the A arm around the ball joint mounting or excessive alignment shims. These indicate the need for replacement.
Unless the wheel bearings are severly worn or missing rollers they can be cleaned, repacked with good grease, and tightened and adjusted.
Matt,
Thanks for the tip on the swaybar bushings. I thought that was all I had seen, too, but I thought maybe I was missing something.
Ball Joints are so cheap, I think I may just do both uppers and lowers for piece of mind.
I guess there's no alternative for the rest but to buy rubber suspension bushings one at a time?
Rick
Thanks for the tip on the swaybar bushings. I thought that was all I had seen, too, but I thought maybe I was missing something.
Ball Joints are so cheap, I think I may just do both uppers and lowers for piece of mind.
I guess there's no alternative for the rest but to buy rubber suspension bushings one at a time?
Rick
good suggestions about ball joints. Springs can be easily cut with a cutoff tool. One coil in the rear, either one or two coils in the front depending on how low you want it. Two coils cut from the front will give the car a slight rake, one coil keeps it pretty level.
Also check the oil level in the steering dampner, if it's dry it will creak and eventually break the mounting ears
Also check the oil level in the steering dampner, if it's dry it will creak and eventually break the mounting ears
Mark,
That's an excellent suggestion. I know I read a post on hear where you talked about that before, but it slipped my mind. I bet it's dry, because it seems to be a "steering creak". I've "overgreased" every zirc fitting I could find trying to drive the old dried up sludge out, and it has helped a bunch.
I'll check the steering dampner ASAP.
I learned to be pretty good with a grinder and a cutoff wheel in a former life. I may tackle the springs here shortly. I would assume because of the jacked up look of the stock height that there are absolutely no clearance issues with chopping the springs?
Rick
That's an excellent suggestion. I know I read a post on hear where you talked about that before, but it slipped my mind. I bet it's dry, because it seems to be a "steering creak". I've "overgreased" every zirc fitting I could find trying to drive the old dried up sludge out, and it has helped a bunch.
I'll check the steering dampner ASAP.
I learned to be pretty good with a grinder and a cutoff wheel in a former life. I may tackle the springs here shortly. I would assume because of the jacked up look of the stock height that there are absolutely no clearance issues with chopping the springs?
Rick
if i might throw in an alternative thought, and contrary to the direction this post is heading.....
i advertised STOCK springs for sale off the parts car a couple of months ago, and I nearly started a riot. why did sooo many guys want stock springs? based on what it took to get these springs off, and the condition of the springs compared to the rest of the car....it certainly wasn't because their stock springs deteriorated. I'm thinking they were tired of modified springs.
Also, i find out that NO ONE sells new, replacement stock spec springs. you can buy stiffer "performance" springs, but not full size regular performance new replacement springs.
Unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure that you can live with whatever ride the cut springs will produce, i'd suggest finding cut springs and holding on to your stock springs.....just in case you eventually change your mind.
i advertised STOCK springs for sale off the parts car a couple of months ago, and I nearly started a riot. why did sooo many guys want stock springs? based on what it took to get these springs off, and the condition of the springs compared to the rest of the car....it certainly wasn't because their stock springs deteriorated. I'm thinking they were tired of modified springs.
Also, i find out that NO ONE sells new, replacement stock spec springs. you can buy stiffer "performance" springs, but not full size regular performance new replacement springs.
Unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure that you can live with whatever ride the cut springs will produce, i'd suggest finding cut springs and holding on to your stock springs.....just in case you eventually change your mind.
not emphatically stating that i am postively correct....
i'm curious to know what else would drive the large amount of demand for a set of USED stock springs. just about everything else i sold off this car, seems like getting one buyer was almost lucky.
i should have asked all the buyer why they wanted them...but didn't think of it at the time.
can you offer any other alternative reason?
i'm curious to know what else would drive the large amount of demand for a set of USED stock springs. just about everything else i sold off this car, seems like getting one buyer was almost lucky.
i should have asked all the buyer why they wanted them...but didn't think of it at the time.
can you offer any other alternative reason?
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Well, that could be it, Denise. the parts car is a '74...small bumpers.
I dunno, Mark. Seems that of all the things i posted for sale on an individual basis, I got one or maybe two requests at the most for the item being offered.
I never, never posted a 'sold' after the item was gone. Seems there was only one or two buyers for each item.
EXCEPT - the springs. I could have sold 5-6 sets off one 'FOR SALE' posting.
I dunno, Mark. Seems that of all the things i posted for sale on an individual basis, I got one or maybe two requests at the most for the item being offered.
I never, never posted a 'sold' after the item was gone. Seems there was only one or two buyers for each item.
EXCEPT - the springs. I could have sold 5-6 sets off one 'FOR SALE' posting.