more clutch pedal and cable fun

[burlybryan]

Ruined a perfectly good evening upside down, cursing and wishing I could trade two big hands for three small ones. Finally got the clutch pedal, brake pedal and bushings installed. Since the clutch cable retracted against the firewall when the pedal broke, do I have to loosen it up from underneath to get it to reach the newly installed pedal - or (please please please) is there an easier trick? I'd hate to have to fiddle with the cable. Can I take off the spring from below or will there still not be enough cable to reach the pedal?

In searching, people mention how easy it is to swap the pedal. I've done a lot on this car and this has been one of the more tedious simple jobs!

Thanks! Gonna have a beer now.

Bryan

[So Cal Mark]

taking the return spring off the clutch arm will help alot but I'd remove the cable nut also

[GeorgeT]

The hard part is reattaching the heavy pedal return spring - that sucker is stout. The easiest way I've found is to insert coins or washers between the coils to spread the spring so you can attach both ends without pysically having to stretch it yourself.

As far as reattaching the cable, you could disconnect it at the transmission and then reattach after you have the pedal installed and the cable fastened at that end.

[burlybryan]

Thanks guys. I'll try to mark the position of the cable nut. I was hoping to avoid loosening it because when I recently replaced the cable (an naively didn't replace the now broken pedal) it took forever to get it adjusted to where I want it.

George, I don't recall if it was your post, but a search of the BB the other day discovered the coin trick. I've already got the spring loaded with pennies and a few nickels and it's ready to go!

[azruss]

getting the cable tee to drop into the pedal fork is a PITA. make sure you apply some grease to the fork so the tee can rotate and not flex the cable.

[TX82FIAT]

getting the cable tee to drop into the pedal fork is a PITA. make sure you apply some grease to the fork so the tee can rotate and not flex the cable.

This is a very important piece of the puzzel or you will be re-doing the clutch cable again in a few thousand miles as the barrel at the tip for the clutch fort will kink and fray the line if it does not move from proper seating and lubrication.

[burlybryan]

Another inverted evening and it's all back together. Had to loosen the cable nut to the last few threads to allow enough play to (finally) get the cable to drop into the pedal notch in the right orientation. Kind of a bugger to get that notched lug to slip in while keeping the half moon keeper oriented right with the pedal tines.

A few tips learned:
1) don't grease first.
2) it wouldn't hurt to completely loosen the cable in order to attach to the pedal before installation of the pedal (only applies if you're installing a new pedal).
3) you have to have coins in every single spiral of the big pedal spring in order to have just enough length to get it re-attached. Nickels are your friend. The coins do not fall out after installation when you depress the pedal. You have to rip each one out with a pliers. There's about 4 cents still living in my spring.
4) you can, in fact, adjust the clutch cable with the car on the ground and running. Easy reach to spin the big nut a few turns when fine tuning (with the small nut backed off or not installed yet).

Good driving weather this weekend!