Replacing Water Pump - 1981 2L...

[sstarch1]

I'm going to replace the water pump on Sunday and here are the instructions i intend to follow, please critique and add insight where you know what is best/better. Thanks!

1. Remove the fan

2. Drain the radiator/coolant
a. use the plug by the thermocouple on the lower left side and drain everything out
b. disconnect the hoses to the radiator on the radiator end
c. disconnect the overflow hose on the radiator end

Q: Shop manual says to drain the cooling system through radiator and engine block plug. Where the hell is that thing?

3. Remove the water pump
a. Loosen the three bolts on the water pump pulley
b. loosen the two bolts securing the alternator
c. Remove the drive belt
d . Remove the three bolts on the water pump pulley to remove pulley
e. Remove water pump inlet hose
d. remove pump and gasket

Q: Shop manual says to remove two nuts and washers securing heater return tube to rear of water pump. I dont know what that is, but i'll figure it out.

Then install my new water pump in reverse order.

4. connect Radiator to back to the engine:
a. connect the lower hose to the radiator on the radiator end
c. connect the overflow hose on the radiator end

5. Fill and bleed the radiator
I know this is a process with many solutions, especially for the 124 of varying complexity. I intend to follow my Mechanic's method which he explained as follows:

a. Pour coolant into the hose from the radiator to the top of the engine T, from the radiator end, slowly and steadily, witht the radiator cap open
b. once full, connect the hose back to the top of the radiator
c. Fill the radiator, slowly and steadily, from the top until full. Fill the recovery tank to the appropriate level.
d. Connect the radiator fan switch to radiator leaving the fan on the ground. I want to make sure the switch is kicking in at 165 deg.
e. Start the engine and let it idle, watch for air pockets escaping and keep the radiator topped up to the brim. After about 10-15min and a 1L+ more coolant, put the cap back on.

6. Reattach the fan.

Drive happy?

Further Questions:
I have inentionally omitted any grease/lubes, etc that may be needed when doing ANY of this. Do i need anything in terms of sealant/lubrication of nuts/gaskets, etc?

[vandor]

>engine block plug. Where the hell is that thing?

Exhaust side, in the middle of the block, 13mm head.

Your steps do not mention the metal timing belt inner cover. If still present, it may go under two of the WP bolts. You may have to bend or remove it to get the WP bolt out.
I am not sure, but it may be the lower cover that attaches to the WP bolts. To remove that you have to remove to crank pulley, which can sometimes be a PITA. So bending it out of the way may be the better option.

[sstarch1]

I am not sure, but it may be the lower cover that attaches to the WP bolts. To remove that you have to remove to crank pulley, which can sometimes be a PITA. So bending it out of the way may be the better option.

Ugh, exactly right. One of the WP bolts goes through the inner timing belt cover, and i really dont want to remove the crank pulley..

Going to talk with my mechanic about what's next.

[azruss]

I have an 80 FI. I can remove the inner timing belt cover without disturbing the water pump.
you will see a long tube underneath the exhaust manifold that connects to the waterpump. this is your heater return line. caution here as it is easy to strip the bolts. the flange on the pipe is usually warped and doesnt seal well. would suggest using a flat file to get the flange flat before connecting to the water pump. In reality, draining the block is required only if you want to replace all your coolant, which is a good idea to do if it has been awhile.