Looking for some help in doing my first ever fiberglass project. I want to build a kick panel speaker enclosure similar to these : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2649359/1 ... der/page-5

I found some great tutorials on the general process such as:
http://www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html
http://jr.stangnet.com/kick.htm

The http://www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html link mentions that it is generally easier to build enclosures in 2 pieces. I am guessing that is basically what was done in http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2649359/1 ... der/page-5 based on the photo

The one thing not mentioned if you build the enclosure in 2 parts is how to best secure the 2 parts together.

Or am I completely off base in thinking that this should be done in 2 parts?

I have no experience with this, but trying to build something like this is on my list. Hope some others who have tried this respond and when you attempt, please post pictures and any tips you learn along the way.

since you dont have a lot of room to work with on the spider i wouldn't worry about the back side, if your using car stereo
speakers they are designed more or less with a free air environment in mind . I would follow the photos you have there
as a starting point then take fiber glass cloth and glue it in place after that use a paint brush to apply resin . Once i used
fiberglass in the back of a 300z to enclose an amp next to his spare tire so i needed to install a couple fans to add some
air flow over it . To keep the resin from sticking to the car u used news paper as a barrier between the paint and the box .

Daniel wrote:since you dont have a lot of room to work with on the spider i wouldn't worry about the back side, if your using car stereo
speakers they are designed more or less with a free air environment in mind . I would follow the photos you have there
as a starting point then take fiber glass cloth and glue it in place after that use a paint brush to apply resin . Once i used
fiberglass in the back of a 300z to enclose an amp next to his spare tire so i needed to install a couple fans to add some
air flow over it . To keep the resin from sticking to the car u used news paper as a barrier between the paint and the box .

I know just a little bit more than nothing about this. But I thought I'd point-out that Daniel is modest enough he hasn't tried to impress you with his credentials....
But I would listen to Daniel when it comes to speaker enclosures & design. He knows what he's talking about.

edit:
wow... that really makes me look like a kiss-a$$! Not trying to! Just hoping to give the original poster some additional confidence in the response.
sheesh.... some days I shouldn't be at the keyboard.

"Step AWAY from the keyboard"......

Daniel, I was thinking of doing the back mostly because well the photo did and because I have no idea what I am doing But also because it seemed like it would help in securing the enclosure in place ultimately. Without making a full enclosure "box", what would you suggest in regards to securing this in place?

Looked at the links you posted and then did a few searches, came across this 4 part video series.... Very detailed and the end product looks pretty good in my opinion, maybe these videos will help out. I think I'd feel comfortable trying this even with no prior experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSUHSpME ... ure=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8s_TqbD ... ure=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE_g0Vyz ... ure=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vee5rbRc ... ure=relmfu

thanks for the compliment dan

Steve one way to form the outer side first would be to use some perforated aluminum shape it with tin snips
and bend to your desired fit . After that brush on some resin then cover with fiber glass cloth and brush
resin on top of the cloth . You can sand and smooth out the finish then apply bondo and do more sanding
for a nice ready to paint finish or cover with vinyl fake leather material the vinyl is a great way to cover
flaws in the build you can get away with a lot using this stuff .

perforated Aluminum
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/alumin ... alog/N-gd8

Landhawk, will take a look. Thanks.

Daniel, I had planned on using my map pockets for molds for the part that touches the car body and follows those curves. It fits the section perfctly already. That would be the back part as show in the original picture. Still not really sure the best way to build the front part such that it is attached to that back part in a secure manner.

Would it be better to build the enclosure as a unit and then install it? Or build the back and attach it, and then build the front "in place"?

If you remove the pocket part of the panel and just use the back kick panel side that could be a starting point
I have plans to do a nice stereo system in my spider but this will be the last thing i do and haven't spent much time
thinking about how to tackle the speakers . Here is what i know, you want the speakers to fire at you not your feet
so getting an proper angle is important . The tweeters ( i'm assuming your using component speakers ) are even
more important when placement is concerned . Tweeters need to be in line of sight with your ears if you have them
aimed else where a good part of the sound they produce never ends up being heard .

Like i said before shaping the front could be done with the perforated aluminum or other materials you just need
something to hold a shape you come up with then use the fiberglass resin to make your design solid, gluing mounting
tabs or coming up with a way to mount the kick panels can be done at the end .

I had a set of home build full enclosures in my spider many years ago. Here are a few things to look at.
I would expect the original plastic parts to melt when resin is applied to them. The chances of using them as a mold is very low and you wont get the part to release. Here is how you get around that. use clear 3M box tape. This is an natural mold release. Doesnt even require waxing to get a release. you can tape over the existing metal and use it to bridge holes and gaps. you can tape the factory plastic parts for protection, you can tape cardboard or wood for making a simple mold. If 2 parts are the way to go, make each piece and let them dry. cut your speaker hole and glass the seam from the inside. you will need to rough up the glass to get a good bond. you can just use a couple of layers of mat about 1" wide and score the middle to get it to fold and just glass in place. if the shape is complicated and the mat doesnt want to follow the contour, go to a shop with a chopper gun and have them blow you a bag of chop, or just find some woven roving and pull the strands out and cut them up yourself with a pair of scissors. A 3rd way (and the way i would do it) would be to cut the strands to a workable length, wet them with resin and lay them down in the seam and dab with a very cheap paint brush. this isnt a strong bond, but you dont need much. this also gives you a way to bolt the part on from the inside. buy lots of acetone. this is a messy job and you will use it.

The speakers I am using are a convertible component set (the tweeter can be mounted co-axially on to the mid). If I build an enclosure like this I will definitely mount the tweeter individually.

I see about the aluminum. You are saying to use it to lend shape to the fleece as it is stretched.

Thanks again.

azruss, awesome tidbit about the tape. Will definitely remember that. Thanks!

the aluminum can be bent to your own design and as you go you may need to cut reliefs in it or cut out sections and
glue or wire another piece together to get the shape your looking for if you can get about a 45 degree angle on the
speaker that would be pretty good . Once you have the basic shape then start your fiberglass work .

ya thanks azruss didnt know about the clear tape working like wax paper lol . If you use the clear tape on metal
it may not stick to well i would use masking tape first then clear giving it something better to cling to .

And hopefully integrate a pocket into it as well!