Hi to all the great people in this forum!
I'm still relatively new, and in the process of restoring my lovely "Bruna", a 1980 Spider.
The car was running when I first both it, but stopped soon after because, among other things, the fuel pump failed. So I have decided for a full restoration (more likely rebuilding) of the fuel system.
I have a new pump and filter already installed, the tank is getting rebuilt and I bought a new pressure regulator, new fuel hoses, vacuum hoses and clamps.
Any suggestion/things to watch out for?
My level of practical experience with cars is below beginner, but I have fond memories of watching my dad in Italy repairing the numerous Fiats we owned over the years.... good times!
-Giulia

Looks like from your list of parts , you'll be changing all the injector hoses and using the proper fuel line clamps. When the injectors are out, perhaps look at getting them serviced and flow checked and replace the rubber seals on the injectors.
Just make sure the battery is disconected as the starter is below all those fuel lines.
The ground for the fuel pump is on a stud at/near the rear light- driver side , make sure the conection is good. Download Brad Artique's wiring diagram for your year as well as obtaining a manual or two.
Chris

Thank you Chris!
Yes, I will have the injectors serviced as I'm thinking that it may have been due long ago.
As for the books, I'm and avid reader and I have all the wiring, servicing, troubleshooting manuals out there, and I can probably quote entire pages of Brad's book word-by-word, even in a "spelling bee" fashion.

For the injectors seals, are there different types and sizes depending on the manuf. year?

geecee wrote:For the injectors seals, are there different types and sizes depending on the manuf. year?

Nope, all are the same I believe.

So, i've got my fuel tank back from the shop but i'm not quite happy with the cleaning.
Any suggestion about it? My car has been sitting unused for several tears and fhe rank is full of gunk. Help...?

What did they clean? Have a nicely painted outside?
I cleaned mine by putting water in it with some pebbles (marble sized) and gave it a good shake to clean/loosen any gunk or rust flakes. After letting it sit overnight in a warm room to dry, I had bought a tank sealing kit from a jobber store here called Lordco. Think it was about $60.00 after taxes. It is a 3 part procedure...clean with a chemical. Another chemical preps the inside and then the last is a sealer. Have to really turn and shake the tank as there are baffles in the thing.
I let the tank dry a couple of days before putting it in the car.
In the past I have read that there are numerous stores that carry a kit in the states.
Clean the lines as well...have a compressor? If in doubt, put a new main fuel line in.

Chris,
thanks again. The pebbles idea is a good one, and with all the baffles and sub-compartments inside, it will be easier to hear if even a single one is left inside, unless there is so much gook I don’t see but that will get them stuck inside.
The people at the shop did try to use their cleaning vat solution but without success, although they did repair a few area where the rust had weakened the tank. Like you said it is now paint-less, still dirty inside but leaks-free.
This weekend I’ll take my chances with the pebbles method, and since I have already started trying last evening sloshing Simple Green and some water, I’ll continue that way, plus try with acetone/pebbles sloshing too. It will be quite a workout for my biceps!
I do have an air compressor, and I had in mind to blow all the lines, My worry is about the thin metal ones under the car, obviously all rusted. Do you think I risk hurting them?

If the lines are that rusted, look into replacing them as they will continue to rust and before long you will end up with pin holes and steady leaks. The main fuel line in the FI goes through the cab of the car along the drivers floor/door sill. If it has not been sitting in water, I'd be thinking it should be ok but return\vent lines running under the car ?? the metal brake lines run in the trans tunnel as well..are they rusty?
You'll need a faring tool for the metal lines where any connect to a hose. A small line bender is good as well so you get smooth bends and not a kink.