how do i get into the booster?
i know that it turns about an inch then it comes open.
but i cant seem to turn it

Joe, I was just down this road a few months ago. It is. PITA. The two halves of the booster rotate opposite one another. If you look at the seam you will see that the diaphragm is wedged between the two halves. I used a punch to beat one half around while a friend kept the other from turning. I also had it in a vise to compress it. Like I said, PITA. It is spring loaded so when it is rotated to the point of removal it will scare the hell out of you if do not have it compressed. Hope this helps.

thank you for the info

i have a vice and a strap to keep it in tact

With all the trouble I went through to change the diaphragm , it still leaked by. The problem was not with the diaphragm. Be sure to put plenty of oil or grease on the part of the diaphragm that compresses between the two halves. It will make reassembly alot easier.

ok i have a mix for that
i was told by a rc boat racer
the most slippery stuff is marvel mistery oil and vasoline mix

just a good dab on the right spots should do

i used a oil container to chatch fluid from the reservoir and master cylider

had to pull the carb"no gasket damage"

i unbolted it

and the tank


witch left me a nasty hole


then "now its clean up time"

ok so im going to oil and slick it up,put it in a vice and use a drift to turn it
with a strap around it so it stays in tact.

i hope this sounds ok. i need some magic help

well a drift worked -thanks dennis
i poured some mistery oil in the seam
then i put the bracket back on the back to vice it
i put lines on it to put it back together the same
i put lines on it to see when to stop
cleaned and painted some things
ill post some pics soon

Joe, Was the booster leaking or was this disassembly for cosmetic purposes only ? If it was leaking let me know how the fix turned out.

its not in yet im painting the booster and cleaning the Ebay
it had some cracks in the diaphram like dryrot

Joe, I started out like you. Wire wheels in a drill chuck. Drill does not spin fast enough, not enough torque to remove all the corrosion and paint, and you need 4 hands or it gets out of control. Moved up to a wire wheel on a 4 inch angle grinder, better results but you still need 4 hands and one of them will get wire wheeled eventually, or the part gets thrown across the garage. Then I had the idea of going pro, so I made a sand blast cabinet. It can get into tiny areas and remove grime from aluminum gently, but is also terribly slow and still won't remove some paints or heavy corrosion. My tool of choice: a wire wheel mounted to a bench grinder. Makes quick work of anything you want to clean, removes paint, corrosion, grime, etc. And if the grinder is bolted to a stand or table you can clean heavily corroded parts or tiny parts. If all you do with it is clean bolt heads and bolt threads it will pay for itself just in the amount of time it saves.

Good work on the booster by the way. I've got 3 with busted diaphragms I've been meaning to rebuild. Where did you get the diaphragm?

i bought the diapham from casba
and i also ordered new resivoir and hoses

this project started when i saw the paint on the frame rail was gone"brake fluid leak"
so that needed cleaning and paint.last year i ordered a MC and an intake gasket for this job
but i waited to get the hoses for the block vent witch will be up next

when i took it apart for this i found inside the carb the white cap for the vent
down inside the primary barrel "it was causing a "no choke"condition

Looking good Joe

Nice! Is that "cadmium plating" paint that eastwood sells?

no just gold spay from the dollar store

thanks for posting