Replacing a transmission

[JOEPROC]

I have a 84 Azzurra which needs transmission work. Although I'm fairly adept at mechanics, I have never fooled with this part of an auto. Is this a feasible project for me? I'm not talking about repair but installing a rebuilt one. Any help or advise would be welcomed.

[TX82FIAT]

I think part of this answer lies in what you have available to you in your garage. Do you have a lift and experience with other drive drain assebly. This is not a job I'd want to do on jacks.

[JOEPROC]

Thanks for the advise. No, I don't have a lift so I guess I'm just out of luck. All I have is a 3 ton jack and some car stands. Looks like I'll not be able to do as much work on my car as I'd like. I certainly don't have ( or want to spend ) the cash for a lift.

[aj81spider]

I'll give you an alternate, more optimistic view. I'm a complete novice - never worked on a car before I bought my spiders about a year ago. Started working on them last summer. This winter I pulled the engine and transmission together (do a forum search - lots of great threads that will help with that!). The only thing I had that you didn't list was a harbor freight engine crane (I think it was $149) and a leveler.

I think you could drop the transmission without pulling the engine and replace it, but in the worst case it's a weekend of work to pull them together. Once they are out changing the transmission is trivial - then put them back in together.

...Or since they're out anyway...there's lots you could do to the engine.

[TX82FIAT]

I don't think you need a lift. I also don't think you need to pull the engine to fix the trans. The lift simply makes it easier to work under there. It is difficult to do without a lift.... but I don't think you need to pull the engine. Some other solutions could lie in the local topograpy.

[digitech]

As was stated, you don't NEED to pull the engine - it's just another way of doing it and some people (myself included) like it better. If you then decide to or need to replace main seals, oil pan gasket or a multitude of other tasks, then they are easily and better accomplished. But, you can pull/replace the tranny with jack stands, floor jack and a weekend.

[spidernut]

It is like any other mechanical task on a car:

1. Read the manual regarding removing the transmission, drive shaft and clutch assembly
2. Get under the car and look at the location of all the bolts and fittings mentioned in the manual
3. Re-read the manual again
4. Determine which tools you'll need to do the job right the first time so you don't have to do it again
5. Get back under the car and look at everything one last time, then decide what other parts you might as well replace while underneath the car such as clutch cable, speedometer cable, etc.
6. Recognized that you now know more than the average auto mechanic about changing a Fiat transmission and are now better equipped than they are to complete the job properly
7. Order the parts you need
8. Go for it

I've always felt working on cars was 10% intelligence, 40% confidence and 50% having the right tools for the job. I have personally found nothing particularly difficult about changing a transmission out and/or replacing clutch components if you are prepared for it.

Working on the gearbox itself is a different story - never been there, never done that.

[spiderrey]

Like they said. No lift. jack stands or ramps for the front of the car and the right tools. Asecond person to help would be nice. i did this when I was a kid, 30 years ago by myself with a book.

[vandor]

I've done it way too many times both with and without a lift. Of course it is easier on a lift, but not required.
I've done it many times by myself with the car on jackstands. A helper goes a long way, especially on installation. Oh, and an old sleeping bag to lay on, so you don't lay on the cold/hard concrete!

[bobplyler]

I've done it many times by myself with the car on jackstands. A helper goes a long way, especially on installation.

I did it by myself on my Pinto (years ago). Lying on the ground, with gear oil pouring out the rear of the transmission onto your stomach isn't much fun.

[rlux4]

I'd estimate that the vast majority of DIYers that pull the tranny on our cars do it without the benefit of a lift. It would be nice of course, but definitely not required. Ramps or good jack stands work fine. I did mine using jack stands. For me the hardest part was getting to the top bolts. Have you ever seen those gloves they use when doing artificial insemination on a cow? They go up past your elbow. The path between the tranny and tunnel is tight and I got pretty greasy arms in the process. Also, if you haven't done a search on the subject, you'll find you need a swivel socket and extensions to get to the top bolts. If you're replacing the clutch, Ford Mustangs uses the same clutch allignment tool.
Ron

[JOEPROC]

Many, many thanks for all of the good advise given. I'm brand-new to this forum but joined just because of seeing how much help was so freely given. Now, I feel much better about replacing the transmission. I have all the tools mentioned except the lift so I'm just going to jump in and do it! I'll probably be asking more questions but for now I'm set. Thanks again!

[wachuko]

Do a search for clutch change... good threads on how to remove the transmission.

These were the tools I used... I used two 10" extensions and only one swivel joint... to try to keep it as straight as possible when applying the torque.









Drive shaft is out as well...




To remove the shifter:

Using the end of the chrome extension as a fulcrum, insert the 2 tools (small screwdrivers) 180 degrees apart and pry the plastic retainer to push it away from the end of the extension. It will pop right out. No amount of pulling or jerking is going to get it, but rather the well placed prying action. Note where all the pieces are during disassembly, because you'll need to load them all inside the extension in the proper order when re-assembling.

When reassembling the extension slide the loaded assembly over the gear shifter, and give it a sharp bonk to drive it home. If it doesn't stay, then you didn't bonk it hard enough.







And in case you ask, real men don't need hand lotion...

[wachuko]

A few tips from several threads on this:

Ed,

It's a lot of working on your back but not too hard to figure out, especially if you've done a clutch job on any other car.

Main things to disconnect you will see when you get under the car.

One tip is to get a clutch alignment tool at Advance Auto Pats. I only paid $1.98 for mine. Another tip is change the gear oil while you have the transmission on the bench or floor. It's a lot easier that way and cheap preventive maintenance.

I have a nice spring puller I use to reattach the clutch spring. On some cars this is one tough spring. I've read where guys have used coins in the coils to extend the spring. The coins fall out first time you press the pedal to the floor.

Oh yeah, if you want any of the switches for backup lights, emissions, etc, in the transmission to work afterward, hunt them down and disconnect before moving the trans. I learned this too late.

I'm editing this post to add -- disconnect the battery first, and this is a good time to check or change the guibo (big rubber thing on the driveshaft).

Ernie

You will need to get the front and rear axle up on jack stands. Remove the center console then remove the chrome shifter extension. Remove the trans tunnel plate and disconnect the wires that come up through it. Remove the 6 bolts from the rubber flex disc at the rear of the transmission. Remove the trans inspection plate at the bottom of the bellhousing. Remove the clutch cable from the throwout arm.

Now comes the hard part. Remove the starter. You will need a universal joint/swivel joint and a few long extensions. Remove the two upper bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine block...also a P.I.T.A. Loosen the rear trans support bar to body nuts so that the nuts can be spun off quickly. Loosen the lower trans to block bolts and put a shop/racing jack(something with wheels) under the trans to support it.

Now with the stronger guy under the car and the other guy holding the engine block remove the lower trans to block bolts completely. The block has a bushing that engages the trans bellhousing so not to worry that it will immediatly fall, also the input shaft from the trans engages the crankshaft.

The trans is pretty light (60-75 pounds), however while on your back it will feel like 175 pounds. One guy will lower and slide back the trans while the other guy holds the block and tilts it backward. Watch you don't slam the shift extension housing or the shifter rod. Someguys take off the shift extension housing, but you can still take the trans out with it on, just slide the shifter rod into 3rd gear.

While you finesse the trans away from the block keep it supported by the jack. You don't want it to hang by the trans input shaft.

You will have to remove and replace the clutch plate and clutch cover with the engine block in the car. You will need to support the engine somehow as it only has the mounts on the two sides and will want to rock back and forth. You don't want to slam the cylinder head into the firewall.

Its always a good idea to surface the flywheel every time the clutch plate is replaced, so you will need to take off the flywheel. You can lock the flywheel if you get a piece of angle iron about a foot long and put one edge in the teeth and run it along the lower drivers side of the block against the trans to block bolt hole boss. A "C" clamp will help.

When you get it back together the clutch pedal should press down about 1 inch before resistance is felt. That equates to the throwout bearing traveling 2mm before it touches the face of the fingers on the clutch cover plate. The throwout bearing should NOT be in constant contact with that cover plate or it will wear out in short order.

[RoyBatty]

I just removed my transmission last night in my driveway. Took me 2.5 hours.
1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
2) Drained the transmission oil.
3) Removed three bolts that secure driveline tho the guibo (flex coupling) at the rear of the trans. Push driveshaft aft
4) Removed nuts that secure driveshaft bearing support to bottom of car and secure shaft to passenger side of car.
5) Pulled bottom plate off bottom of shifter assembly and dropped the bearings and spring out the bottom. Pulled shifter up into car and layed over flat in boot.
6) Removed three fasteners that secure the starter to the bell housing.
7) Disconnect clutch linkage.
Disconnect ground cable if not secured by a fastener already removed.
9) Disconnect speedometer drive.
10) Remove the four bell housing bolts. Must use long extensions and a wobble joint as shown above.
11) Support the transmission as required and remove the nuts that hold the aft transmission mount to the bottom of the car.
12) Cuss and spit as you try to figure out the right amount of aft, down and rotational movement that is required to get the trans to come out without pinching your fingers and such.
13) Remove six fasteners that secure pressure plate to clutch and cuss at your findings.

Here's how I have the car situated for the work.