Heater Core Woes

[Schnauzer]

I had a control valve failure and decided it was prudent to take the core out to be tested rather than risk another flood. Took the core to a radiator shop who pointed out some corrosion and recommended a replacement. He quoted me $200 for the raw core plus the cost of soldering on the end tank/covers. Being the smart cookie that I am I checked for a NOS replacement from Vicks. I received it Friday only to find that the flanges for the control valve and return line we located in different places and at different angles than my original 76. This morning I called Vicks and was told that the NOS cores for my car ran out 10 years ago so I need to bend or cut my plumbing and just run flexible hose through the fire wall. That is the back ground and here is the question.

Do I (1) do as Vicks recommends and cut the metal lines and run heater hose through the fire wall or (2) have my original end with flanges soldered to the new core. I would really appreciate the benefit of someone's experience who has dealt with this situation.

Jim

[htchevyii]

I put a used core in mine, but had an issue with the valve. I carefully bent the metal tube to go thru the existing tube in the firewall, but then it was too short and I couldn't get the hose on it, so I ended up cutting it and running the hose inside, like I didn't want to do. Autoricambi lists a less expensive core, but it's out od stock
http://stores.auto-ricambi.net/-strse-1 ... Detail.bok

[lanciahf]

Send it back to Vicks and tell them to tell you these things before you pay for something.

Have the locale guy use your existing tanks. Its always nice to have local knowledgeable guys around.

[azygoustoyou]

I bought one from Classic Ricambi and one from Auto Ricambi and neither one would work. Classic's wouldn't fit in the heater box. Auto's fit but the angles for the tubes were way off. I ended up using an old one and had to have it soldered and tested. It cost me $45

[azruss]

I found that the specific valve you are looking for is not available. I ended up cutting some short pieces of rubber tube to run from the valve to the firewall. had the original metal tube going thru the firewall.

[Schnauzer]

Frustrating situation. I first took my old core to the radiator shop. They pointed out the corrosion and recommended a new core. Their price? $200 for the core plus the labor to solder on my ends. Easily $250.00. Found the NOS at Vick's for $129.00. No caveat regarding the non fitting later model core. Told by Vick's after the fact that I had to modify. Now I am considering having my end tanks soldered on to the Vick's no match core. It does fit perfectly into the heater box. I am sure the radiator shop will be expensive to fix the problem after I decided not to use them in the 1st place. A simple repair is getting ugly.

Jim

[launieg]

If you want to save money, get a used heater and put on a new valve. Lot's of folks on this forum should have heaters to spare, and the valve is pretty cheap. You will need to compensate for the new valves of course. These photos show a real good valve I got from Ebay from Russia: $25 includes shipping. Pretty nice. Bent the tubing a bit (very hard to do) and then widened the firewall hole too. That's what everyone faces I think. Or cut and add a length of rubber tubing.


this is stock one


this is the new one; see the difference

[sammydafish]

I had a control valve failure and decided it was prudent to take the core out to be tested rather than risk another flood. Took the core to a radiator shop who pointed out some corrosion and recommended a replacement. He quoted me $200 for the raw core plus the cost of soldering on the end tank/covers. Being the smart cookie that I am I checked for a NOS replacement from Vicks. I received it Friday only to find that the flanges for the control valve and return line we located in different places and at different angles than my original 76. This morning I called Vicks and was told that the NOS cores for my car ran out 10 years ago so I need to bend or cut my plumbing and just run flexible hose through the fire wall. That is the back ground and here is the question.

Do I (1) do as Vicks recommends and cut the metal lines and run heater hose through the fire wall or (2) have my original end with flanges soldered to the new core. I would really appreciate the benefit of someone's experience who has dealt with this situation.

Jim

I just ran into the same issue, Vicks lists two heater cores, one cheap one that says you need to modify the lines to make it fit, one more expensive one that doesn't say any of that. I bought the more expensive one, when it didn't fit I called, the guy on the phone was a dick. Pretty disappointed in the transaction, don't care to buy from them again.

[Schnauzer]

Sammydafish:

Sorry to hear of your problem. I did not see and was not aware of there being two different cores nor did I know that either had to be modified until after my purchase. What a nightmare! I ended up having my OEM end tank with the flanges soldered on to the Vick's core. My radiator guy pointed out to me that the core was very cheaply done. Less tubes than the original hence greater spacing between them. He pressure tested after soldering on the end tank and said that due to the wider spacing that the tube flexed and he was afraid it would blow with only 20lbs in it. Unfortunately I was past the point of no return and did install the core. It did not fit the box perfectly. It was very very tight and pooched out the sides of the box making the mating of the lower fan housing impossible to match up. I could only get three of the clips on. In retrospect I should have had my radiator guy replace the core and use my end cap/tanks. I would have had a better core (more tubes with less spacing) that fit perfectly. Originally I though his core's price was out of line. Like Toby Keith says in his song, "I wish I knew then what I do know now". Hopefully your report along with mine will help others avoid this train wreck.

Jim

[baltobernie]

Actually, Rod Stewart said it first (Bonus question: what was unique about this album cover?)

Remember the First Rule of Fiat Restoration - good old stuff is best, expertly refurbished OE stuff is second best, reproduction stuff is a last resort My local radiator guy put the hard sell on me to repair the Fiat core. I'm going to drive by there tomorrow and thank him

Glad to hear that you at least got it finally sorted, and I'm sure others will benefit from your experience. Be sure and write Vick about your experience; I don't think any of the established Spider vendors knowingly sells bad product.