Let's Talk Windshields

[Schnauzer]

Are windshields specific to the year. I have a 76 & a 79 2000. Are the Spider windshields all the same?

[courtenay]

I don't know the answer - but I have a somewhat related question - does anyone know if auto glass shops still stock our windshields? Or what do you do if you need one?

[baltobernie]

Yes to both of you.

[spidernut]

A glass shop quoted me $99 for new windshied a few years back. He said they were readily available.

[Autoricambi]

Some of you may recall a discussion I had w/ another vendor about this subject. Not all windshields are the same. Although most are of high quality - many are not the same dimension or same thickness. Especially those manufactured outside of the EU. Thinner windshields will not seat / seal in the gasket. Please be careful when make such an important purchase.

[azruss]

i tried mixing and matching windshields, frames, and rubber seal. found they varied 3/4".

[Schnauzer]

Regarding availability. I went to a glass shop and was quoted $675.00 for the windshield. Not stocked by main stream vendors. Came from speciality supplier for "classic" and "vintage" autos. I think I got part of my answer...all Spider glass from all years is the same....correct?

[RoyBatty]

There is a Fiat service letter regarding this issue at Brad Artigues site. http://www.artigue.com/fiat/servicelett ... /701-2.pdf.

I found it helpful when installing my new windshield.
Even more so was my friend that does auto glass for a living. Although he had never done a Fiat Spider windshield before.
It took us about an hour. With the hardest part being getting the gasket to fit properly at the upper corners.
Good Luck

[manoa matt]

Yes, new windshields are available from some of the major national chains such as Safelight Autoglass. Very reasonable, and with a lifetime guarantee. Installed in about 2 hours.

All the same, interchangeable...Not necessarily, It all depends on may factors. The level of coachwork at the factory to fit the windshield, frame, doors, and vent windows all play up in the fit of the windshield as all but the glass itself can be adjusted, and those components can change position over time. We are talking about a convertible without a solid roof structure with integrated windshield frame that would provide some level of consistency.

For example: If we took two cars that came off the line one right after another, there are minute differences in the fit and curvature of the glass as a result of the adjustable components previously mentioned. Right off the line the two pieces of glass could be interchanged without faults due to the fact that new glass is more flexible and forgiving. However after the glass has been in the car for 30+ years it has conformed to the specifics of that particular body. Old glass is more brittle and less forgiving.

That being said, it is possible to transfer the glass from one car to another without it breaking, but its very risky and you won't know till you try, but there are several steps that can be used to reduce the risk of the glass breaking.

On one occasion I worked on a old ladies car that had good glass but a windshield frame that completely rusted through at the upper passenger side corner. I had an extra frame and warned her of the possibilities prior to commencing work. I used a suction cup on the exterior of the windshield and nylon tie down straps lashed to the tube bumper to hold the windshield upright and on the body seal inboard of the cowl panel. I loosened and removed the bolts for the frame and lifted the old frame off. I lubed up the edges of the rubber windshield seal with WD-40 and carefully placed the newer frame on, loosely installed the frame to body bolts and adjusted it fore and aft to get a good seal with the vent window, then tightened down the frame bolts.

My own car was a different story. When I bought the car (1978) I noticed pack rust at the base of the frame just above where the frame passes the fender. As steel rusts, the rust expands. The expansive force of the corrosion had started to push out the frame and gasket, warped the frame itself, and if not currently leaking would leak in the near future. The construction of the frame is as follows: The frame itself is mild steel that has been chromed on the exterior, the interior is uncoated steel. The brackets that can be seen in the door jambs are cast iron that have also been chromed. The cast iron bracket extends up into the mild steel frame and the two are welded together. The section of the bracket internal to the frame is also uncoated. When assembled at the factory, a "backer rod" of sorts consisting of open cell foam was inserted into the cavity between the frame and the rubber gasket. The open cell foam is basically a sponge which retains moisture, exacerbating the corrosion of the frame from the inside out.

Back to my car. I had rebuilt almost all mechanical components so a three piece system of frame, gasket, and glass couldn't be that difficult. I heard stories that you should take frame, gasket, and glass from one car and transfer it over to another car without separating them. At the time I did not have a spare windshield so my plan was to remove the frame, remove the internal rust and paint the interior of the frame and re-assemble. Once you get that rubber gasket out you will notice a lot of dirt in there and I could not put it back like that so I used a toothbrush with soap to clean it out. I re-assembled all the components and re-installed it on the car, adjusted the angle so the gap between the frame and vent window was correct. The gasket was bulging out on the passenger side mid way up. I gently pushed it in with my fingers and the windshield cracked at that point. Fast forward a few months later when I got a parts car (1981) with a good windshield. Same procedure, and it went in without problems. Go inside for a celebratory beer, come out 10 min later, a crack propagated from the bottom edge.

What I learned from those two instances: The clean rubber gasket would grip the windshield and not let it equalize within the gasket and frame. I finally came across a 3rd parts car (1976) with a good windshield. Upon the installation of this windshield I applied WD-40 around the edges of the windshield prior and at all surfaces of the rubber gasket. The install went in without problems, and I attributed it to the ability of the glass to equalize and center itself within the gasket and frame. What I also found, as others have mentioned is this particular piece of glass was the same thickness, however it was about 3/4" smaller across, and 1/2" smaller up and down. About a week later I was driving in the rain and noticed water infiltrating under the glass and onto the dashboard. After a few days of letting it dry out I inserted the tip of a tube of black silicone caulk between the glass and frame and filled in the void and effectively sealed the glass to the gasket all the way around. I made sure to inject enough that additional silicone squeezed out around the entire frame, once cured I removed the excess with a razor blade, no leaks or cracks after 4 months.

I hope this long story helps to illustrate the fickle nature of handling old glass and the potential problems associated with, and guide any spider owner with a general approach for installing such glass.

Matt

[WarbirdAL]

got mine last year for 265 installed by a local glass shop

[Schnauzer]

Manoa Matt is correct. I got a quote of $234.00 installed from Safelite. Thanks Matt