Savara Thermostat

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 9:56 pm

My 1982 has a Savara thermo, which I understand may be original equipment. The car is just back from the shop, and we've determined that the thermo opens at about 210, which is a little higher than it should. But it does open and the fan does go on. We changed out the sensor and gauge to make sure they were not the problem.

Its cold here in NY and the temp doesn't get above 190 even driving around town. My mechanic recommending waiting until spring, when we could drill a hole in the thermo. IAP also talks about this in their tech bulletin.

Has anyone else had this problem with Savara, or can I get a recommendation for a new brand of thermo that may open at a lower temp? Thanks

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:43 pm

there are 2 different Savara stats listed in the parts guide; 180 and 190. I've only seen the 190 version. Generally, the operating temp will be 10-15 degrees hotter than the stat rating. Have you checked the temp drop across the radiator?

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:19 pm

Yes, they told me they checked the temp drop and it was not the problem. Also, the radiator is only 18 months old. But the thermo is opening at 210 which seems consistent with your comment.

Is that temp too high for the engine?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:30 pm

Hey guys I got a similar question

Durring the last part of my complete engine overhaull, I put my cooling system back together, but before I did I tested the thermostat.

I have a 78 spider with a Savara thermostat, the big one with three ports.

The thermostat opened at the correct temp, and was fully open at the correct temp. After testing I flushed it with cooler water to watch the thermostat close, which it did, but not completely. I poured water through the various holes, and each time it came out the other holes.

My question is: Does the thermostat ever completely close? If IAP recommends drilling a hole to let water flow, is that the same as a non closing thermostat?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:27 pm

the thermostat should close otherwise it will take a long time for the engine to warm up;

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:16 pm

Besides a delayed warm up, what else? Any performance issues?
If IAP recommends drilling a hole to prevent air lock, then my non-closing thermostat should do the same thing, right? Should I replace the thermostat? A new one is close to $40, has anyone tried to put an internal thermostat in the space between the head and the casting comming out of the head? Would this be the right location?

thanks

matt

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:47 pm

it depends on how much flow is there when the stat is supposed to close. If it's open too far the engine may never warm up, causing accelerated engine wear.

The early cars had a stat in the cyl head. You'll need an early water outlet to do the change. The downside to that is that the water outlet uses small bolts that corrode and strip pretty easily.

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:08 pm

Thanks Mark,

I've got several outlet castings, and my bolts/threads are still good, but I'd rather do it the right way and not have to worry, than McGuyver it and worry all the time. Looks like my restoration is not done yet.

thanks

matt

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:54 pm

the external stat with a small bleed hole drilled in it is pretty reliable, and I think a better set up than the internal one. The internal setup as used on the early Spiders doesn't have a bypass that I can see

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