I hope so good advise can be gotten. I replaced my 1976 engine with a 1977 one and the alternator mounts on the opposite side of the engine. The mount is part of the original block and the new engine has the mount on the oil filter stump. I have the alternator from the new engine and it has the regulator built in. Problem is the oil pressure gauge was eliminated in the 1977 spider and it only had the oil warning idiot light. Does anyone know if a mount is available for the left side so I can use the old oil filter stump with both sensors or can I retrofit the new one for both gauges? Also how difficult is it to modify the wiring for the new type alternator?

Thanks!

The alternator mount with the oil filter boss can accomidate both the low pressure light and the oil pressure gauge sender. The oil pressure sender mounts on the rear hole, and the low pressure light mounts in the front hole, just keep the wiring tight or it can get caught in the V belt.

FWIW my `77 has an oil pressure gauge.

-don

Thanks Matt,

The seller said the engine came out of a "77. Would you recommend using the newer alternator with the internal regulator and doing away with the old external cutout? It is in the way on the fender and will not let an alternator fit. Also the pressure regulator for the electric pump is in the way. Would you recommend doing away with the electric fuel pump and regulator and using the mechanical one that came on the engine?

Thanks!

The internal reguator alt might be a higher amp unit, and will be easier to wire up, but the real thing to watch is how the pulleys line up, you may have to swap water pump pulleys or crank pullys to get everything lined up, not a big deal though. The 76 has the single track crank pully and a deep water pump pulley, then the lighter crank pulley will help performance slightly, but probably not too noticeable.

I'd probably stick with the electric pump, just move the fuel pressure regulator. You can leave the mechanical pump bolted to the engine in case the electric fails. Alternatively if you are worried about the T belt breaking and having the aux shaft hit a connecting rod, then do the modification of the shaft and just rely on the electric pump.

Thanks again Matt,

All good advise. It also has the dual air horns and the pump is in the way and it looks as if I will have to move it too. Oh well!

Everything hooked up and tried to start the car. No spark and the fuel pump does not have power. I checked the fuses. I see that the ignition switch provides power to 2 relays that power the fuel pump and supply voltage to the dual point capacitors. I here the relays engaging when I turn on the ignition switch. The coil has voltage. Any suggestions?