Folks, Not sure if this belongs in restoration or General maint. I'm putting it in resoration because the brake lines seem remarkably stuck on the hoses and master cyclinder from the years. I have a 82 Spider and will be replacing the hard brake lines. Typical story, started a brake project to rebuild calipers, clean up shoes, new calipers, new pads, and moved into new hoses and now brake lines. I'm new to brake line installs. I have not had the pleasure of weaving brake lines across the front fire wall and clipping them into the existing mounts. I have a few ideas of how to start this project but before I started bending metal I wanted to see if anyone has any good methods for running these lines. I'll start with the front passenger side (a must be done) and then move from there.

Any help or suggestions to help get it right the first time would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I have the proper flare nut wrenches. However, the bolts on the mater cylinder are stuck as well. Given the location of these and the fact I will be replacing the brake lines I am considering cutting the hard line above the bolt of the master cylinder and getting in the with a socket to provide some leverage.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, Ray

Although you can get the unbent lengths of steel line, perhaps you will want to go with an alternative material to make your life somewhat easier and likely at the same price (after you mangle one of the new steel lines), cunifer lines are an excellent way to go:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

http://www.brakequip.com/pdf/ezibend_2.pdf

A line that you can easily snake into position sounds good (Cunifer line). I've already ordered the replacement lines and will give these a shot. Then, if I mangle them up and hit a very high frustration point I'll ordser the lines you have suggested. Hopefully taking my time and measuring everything out will help eliminate the almost certain frustration. At least I know there are options.

Thanks for the insight. Ray

New lines in from IAP. Cutting hard line with a dremmel and breaking the flare nut off the master cylinder with a stript bolt socket worked. Now that I have the master Cylynder out I'm going to replace that as well. For a thick piece 3/4 inch metal it has what appear to be small cracks in it! Strange. Have never seen cracks in a master cyclinder before. To think, all this started because I had a perfectly functioning brake system that had cracks in the rubber hoses connecting the front Calipers. The good news is that a prior owner at some point replaced all rubber hoses in the back of the car. I wonder why they did not do the front hoses at that time knowing the rear needed replacing?

I'm not sure it the brake lines running from the master cylinder are correct. The first line toward the front of the car goes to the rear compensator valve. The lines next to each other run to the two front calipers. Does that sound right for a 1982. I only ask because I think I have seen the drivers side line go into a T fitting on another model. Since the brakes worked I'm going to assume direct lines to front calipers?

I'll complete the new lines this week and install the new master cylinder. From what I have read the acorn nut measurement and bleeding the master cylinder are very important. Any other nuances to be aware of when installing the new MC?

I have never bled a master cylinder but your mileage may vary.

Look carefully at the firewall for cracks around the clutch cable and where the MC actuation rod and vacuum booster emerge.

Are you sure the "cracks" in the master aren't casting flash? Sometimes cast iron can have lines that look like cracks.

Looking at old MC you may be right! The imperfections in the metal that appear to be cracks could in fact be from the casting of the iron. Darn it.... may have spent $30 plus shipping on a part not needed. Well, I think I'm going to put the new one in and hold on to the old one in the event someone needs it. If nothing else, the new MC with the new lines will give me piece of mind when looking at a clean engine bay.