Hi, long story rebuilt block put in with my old head and new carb installed as well. My st and 4th pistons are not firing correctly, when I pull the wire from the distributor I have replaced the plugs and same issue. this is a carberated 1980 spider any input would be greatly appreciated please let me know if you need more info.
Thanks in advance
Matt
Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
There are better ways than pulling wires from the cap. All that voltage is trying it's darndest to go somewhere, and it may be jumping to another post in the dist.
Try using some fine wire (baling wire works, paper clips) and stick it under the wire boot at the cap so just a tiny bit hangs out. Now when you want to kill a cylinder, touch another grounded wire to that tiny bit.
Make sure plug wires in right order, check compression. Easy way to check compression is kill ignition and crank engine, a good engine makes a nice rhythmetic sound, RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
An engine with a low cylinder goes RRRuRRRuRRRuRRRuRRRu..
Keith
Try using some fine wire (baling wire works, paper clips) and stick it under the wire boot at the cap so just a tiny bit hangs out. Now when you want to kill a cylinder, touch another grounded wire to that tiny bit.
Make sure plug wires in right order, check compression. Easy way to check compression is kill ignition and crank engine, a good engine makes a nice rhythmetic sound, RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
An engine with a low cylinder goes RRRuRRRuRRRuRRRuRRRu..
Keith
- TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
You can get a compression tester at the parts stores in their free loaner tool program. First things first, make sure your compression is even, then move forward.
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
Thanks, it does sound like a motor boat ideling and the I appreciate the info about testing the compresion. Could it be the timing is not set correctly? Also new weber carb and electric fuel pump.
Thanks AGAIN
Matt
Thanks AGAIN
Matt
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
When you put the distributor back in, where did you set it to? The Fiat engine is timmed off #4 NOT off #1 like most engines. With all the timing marks lined up the dizzy should be pointing and ready to fire #4.
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
Thanks I am trouble shooting what my very inexpensive mechanic did and I REALLY appreciate the input.
MATT
MATT
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
How hard is it to pull the belts off and check the timing belt for proper timing? I do have the big white shop manul for my 2000. Thanks, Matt
- seabeelt
- Patron 2019
- Posts: 1614
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:22 pm
- Your car is a: Fiat Spider - 1971 BS1
- Location: Tiverton, RI
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
You should be able to check the timing and timing marks without taking the belt off. You will just need to remove the belt cover. If you find that the timing marks do not line up, then you will need to take the belt off and reposition the cam pulley(s). If you have the shop manual the belt replacment section should guide you very well. That said we are mre than willing to chat you through the process.
r/
r/
Michael and Deborah Williamson
1971 Spider -Tropie’ - w screaming IDFs
1971 Spider - Vesper -scrapped
1979 Spider - Seraphina - our son's car now sold
1972 Spider - Tortellini- our son's current
1971 Spider -Tropie’ - w screaming IDFs
1971 Spider - Vesper -scrapped
1979 Spider - Seraphina - our son's car now sold
1972 Spider - Tortellini- our son's current
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
Okay the yellow cover is off the cam holes appear to be not set correctly, it looks like I will have to adust them how do I loosen the belt? Is it the bolt with the spring or the one next to it? I I can not see where the other timming marks are for the pulleys any input. Also I removed the distributor cap and it needs to be set correctly as well. Thanks in advance for the help.
Matt
Matt
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
here is a photo I have. Its all I could come up with being my computer skills are minimal. If you notice that my cam holes don't fit exactly dead on the pointers, your correct. But it is correct. This is a good reason to get the adjustable cam gears. You have to look super close and you can see the little nitch in the crank pulley. I installed the yellow cover to make sure it was at TDC and thats how i knew my cams were off by a titch.
Re: Cylinder 1 and 4 not working fully
Thanks, when loosening the timing belt do I loosen the bolt with the Spring? I assume it's that one instead of the one below it.
Thank you all very Much, it's finally getting to be convertable weather here in Indy.
MAtt
Thank you all very Much, it's finally getting to be convertable weather here in Indy.
MAtt