Tie rods & ball joints

[Specialk]

Hi everyone,

I need a bit of help. I've started my front end rebuild and all is going well except I can't get either the tie rod nor the ball joints off. Read in posts that no tool is needed but still can't get them to budge despite wacking away with a hammer. Any tricks or should I go and get the fork tool. Will it also work for the ball joints?

Here's what I've done so far......

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49366944@N ... 466047371/

Cheers!

[TulsaSpider]

Fork tool is one way. The way of the hammer is the other. Here's how I was taught to do it. Loosen the bottom ball joint nut, but do not take it off. take it to where it's even with the top of the shaft, then using the biggest hammer you can hit it with knock the crap out of it. This way the force of the spring will be assisting you. When it lets go the nut will catch the force of the spring, then you have to cut out the ball joint and re-assemble. Looks like you have gone past this point, just keep hammering or get the fork out!

[majicwrench]

DO NOT HAMMER ON THE STUD OR THE NUT. The proper place to hammer is the metal that the stud is sticking thru. Done correctly, just takes a couple good wacks. Sort of an art form really.

[NebraskaSpider]

I am in the middle of a front end rebuild as well and just picked up a fork today from the local auto parts store for ten bucks. It worked great. Just a few taps and they came right off. I wouldn't recommend using a fork if you want to keep your ball joints though. It tore up the rubber on it. I got new joints though so I wasn't too worried about it.

[Foster48x]

Couple of good whacks with a hammer and mine came right off.

[kmead]

The correct way to use a hammer in this case is in fact to use two of them.

Take two hammers, preferably the same weight, align them on either side of the item the tie rod passes through and then hit the ilder, steering arm or whatever at the same exact time with both hammers. The hammers should be as close to 180° from each other as is practical.

Hitting it a few times in this way should have the parts out. This works by slightly compressing the metal of the arm which then pops the conical tie rod up out of the conical hole. With some practice this works very well. I have two 2lb ball peen hammers I use for this purpose.

Alternatively there are very good tools for this use, a pickle fork is not a good tool and should never be used. The following show some tools that do work. I prefer the one with the bolt to the side as you can do ball joints with that one.

http://www.import-car.com/Content/Site3 ... 027577.jpg

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/rodi_2116_284452508

[NebraskaSpider]

Alternatively there are very good tools for this use, a pickle fork is not a good tool and should never be used.

As I used a fork and it's already done I've no choice now, but what are the negative side effects of using the fork? May I have done any damage to my car using a fork?

[Foster48x]

Alternatively there are very good tools for this use, a pickle fork is not a good tool and should never be used.

As I used a fork and it's already done I've no choice now, but what are the negative side effects of using the fork? May I have done any damage to my car using a fork?

I was told not to use a fork if you plan on reusing the ball joint. The forks tend to tear up the boots on them. If you trashed the old ball joints you shouldn't have a problem.

Rick

[manoa matt]

I'm going to go against the grain here and recommend that any/all of the suspension joints should be pressed out with either a ball joint/tie rod seperator, or a 2 jaw puller. Especially the joints at the steering box pitman arm, and steering idler pitman arm. The ball joints at the stub axles, whack away!

Your steering box and steering idler both have aluminum housings, the idler being the weaker to the two. Repeated blows to the pitman arm in any direction, up, down, side to side can all induce play and stress to the internal components and alter the gear mesh. The steering idler mounting points are prone to break, and the lower seal is prone to leak. Wacking the side of the idler arm is only going to make it worse. Steering boxes and idlers are not cheap to replace, and you don't want the idler to break loose at the mounts while driving at any speed.

One thing to remember is all the nuts are nylock. You should unscrew the nut to were the nylon is not engaging the threads. If you manage to separate the joint with the nylon still engaging the threads, the joint shaft will spin and to remove the nut you have to reseat the joint in the tapered hole.

You can make a simple press for the ball joints with two carriage bolts and a threaded coupler.

[Specialk]

Tried the BFH method once again but to no avail!!! The plan is to replace the tie rods and bearings so saving them is not the issue. I finally gave in and ordered the fork seperator from Napa. Hopefully I'll get a chance to give it another go tonight.

[kmead]

BFH isn't needed, just coordination of two hammers on opposite sides. Having both impact at the same moment is the key.

The proper tool is always best as it will not damage your parts, so getting a proper separator tool will be definitely get the job done with minimal fuss.

Kalr

[Specialk]

Finally got the rods & ball joints off using the seperator. Worked well and wish I had used them from the start instead of wasting the time hammering away.

Decided not to replace the lower CA bushings as I don't have a spring press and seems that Canada doesn't believe in rentals! At least for cars tools!! Most probably regret the decision but the way I figure it, got to leave some projects for next year right???

I've run into 2 problems re-installing the parts. First, I can't seems to get the nut on the inner tie rod (to the idler) tight. Even testing the new one still not installed, the bolt turns. Is there a trick?

Second, any tricks to replace the inner busihing on the sway bar beside drilling out the "rivets". Vick's told me to use grease but didn't help. Any ideas??

Once again, thanks in advance for all your help. Will post update picks shortly.

[manoa matt]

The trick for that is to find a non-nylock nut and tighten it so the tapered shaft seats in the tapered hole of the pitman arm. Once its tight, remove the regular nut and install the nylock nut. Alternatively you can try to wedge it up in there or clamp it.

Got to drill them out. Classicricambi.com has new brackets for $13 which is hardly worth the hassle of dealing with the old ones.

[Specialk]

Finally got everything back together. Wedged tie rods to get nylock nut tight. Hardest part of the whole rebuild (once I purchased seperator, removing tie rods & joints was easy) was getting the sway bar back in place but finally managed after going out to purchase larger clamps. Pics posted below. Still need an alignment but beside that car was driving quite smooth! However, I brought the car to my mechanic to double check and tighten everything up and now I have a squeak coming from both sides. I think he tightened either the CA or shocks too tight. Sounds like I'm in a squeaky bed everytime I move or go over a bump! Going back tomorrow for a fix (hopefully).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49366944@N ... 466047371/

Thanks for all the help!!!

[SLOSpider]

My upper control arms were squeaky on one side. I loosened the bolt and sprayed some white grease in the bushings inside and out and re tighten. Squeak was gone. All control arm bolts should be tighten with car on the ground and preferably with weight in the vehicle.