Wow.. OK.. I am getting old or forgetful.. ( Yes to both probably ) Forgot this thread..

Well anyway, the little Spider has survived.. ( has it been 5 years.. :O that makes me feel really old and even more forgetful )

Started to overheat so checked the head gasket and it was bad.

Pulled the head and had it checked and decked.

I THINK I have all the holes and pins aligned but it won't start.

I THINK it's the distributor but dont have a second set of hands to help turn while I crank.

Car started fine when I pulled it apart. All new gaskets and everything torqued down.

My one issue is I don't have the timing cover.. so I had to eye ball the TDC with a rod and rocking the crank.. so I could be off a tooth ?!?

Is there anyway to find a TDC mark without a cover ? I wish I remember what I did when I did the timing belt the first time.

Can't believe i forgot I documented it on this thread.. Funny thing. I did the same thing again for another guy in that case it was an Opel GT that was a basket case.. Ended up very similar in both story and the final execution..

Funny thing is Murphy Junior ( This car has come to be known as Murphy Senior ) was in worse shape coming in..

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/member-pro ... baron.html

Well got it running.. But idling at 200.. Yep 200. Wont rev much so figure it has to be the crank. I take off belt and realign everything.

Think I have it.. Do a test compression 70-0-70-70 I think that would mean valves out of time..

Unbolt the tensioner. And the funky bolt that holds the spring tension breaks in the motor..

So. Anyone got a timing cover and one of the funky bolts.. ?

Oh and where is the idle adjustment on the carb.?

the 0 is a concern, if the valve timing was wrong all 4 cylinders should be 70

So Cal Mark wrote:the 0 is a concern, if the valve timing was wrong all 4 cylinders should be 70

I agree to a point. I checked the head and the motor.

I did add some oil to the cylinders before compression test.. I MAY not had added as much to that one. Being the numbers are so low I'm not super worried about it until I get them all up and the motor hot.

UNLESS Fiats run low compression numbers. I am used to 150-180 on Opel motors.

BTW anyone got a timing cover or that funky bolt ?

You did a awesome job on the car comparing how it was

You can get the bolt at Autoricambi:

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/BG5-4 ... ivot-Bolt/

aj81spider wrote:You can get the bolt at Autoricambi:

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/BG5-4 ... ivot-Bolt/

Thanks.. $29 for a bolt though.. :/

On a positive note told that I don't need it if I can get tension on the belt without it. Which I can.. So.. Loctite on the tensioner bearing it is for now

Main issue is getting the TDC set now that I have a cover. BTW who thought it was a good idea to put the timing marks on a cover that has to be removed to work on the motor.. ? Could be worse could be on the rear flywheel and only seen if you contort yourself.. ( Any Fiat Guys with old Opels will know what I am talking about.. )

fiat218 wrote:You did a awesome job on the car comparing how it was

Thanks. Still a work in progress.. probably will always be.

ez2wire wrote:

fiat218 wrote:You did a awesome job on the car comparing how it was

Thanks. Still a work in progress.. probably will always be.

I agree. Your welcome

ez2wire wrote:On a positive note told that I don't need it if I can get tension on the belt without it. Which I can.. So.. Loctite on the tensioner bearing it is for now

Well got it tight I thought and it seemed to ran pretty good.. for a day.

Then I got the call.. hope this is it or off to get a new motor. Because something went sideways.

Probably time to go get a heli-coil kit and the funky bolt. Will find out tonight when I align everything again and see where it is..

Well got the bolt out, and the belt back on and everything aligned properly..

Something in the valvetrain must have went that or the bottom end. It starts fine but sounds really bad and has no power and won't idle.

Thinking the belt slipped enough to damage the valves..

Fortunately, have a line on a good used 60K motor.

So new motor it is.. >.<

My belt slipped and I bent a valve. It's actually not that hard to pull the head and replace a valve. I'm a rank beginner at this and managed to get it done over a couple of weekends.

Do a compression test first, before you give up and go for another motor. Let us know what the numbers are. A small error in valve timing (Exhaust Cam in my case ) made a huge difference. Had symptoms like yours. Pulled the head and saw that there was no vale damage , put it back together (with new Head Gasket) and worked the cam timing until it was right (or as right as I can get it with the engine in the car), and now it runs fine.

Yea.. new motor time

Valve broke off and well you can see its not pretty.




New game find the spark plug in #2 ? Its still in the head..

Oh and that valve isn't just sitting in the head.. its a part of the head now, its in there good.

Got used motor from John with good compression numbers. Going to clean it up and prep for install.

Jeff also got a new Carb, and motor mounts, along with clutch kit.

If your gonna do it might as well do everything.

As for the top of the motor.. #1 and #2 aren't pretty as parts of #2 valve made it into #1 piston.