Yes, that's color sanding, a pretty labor and time consuming process, but can bring out most of the beauty of the paint, especially for DIY guys. I have posted only one video regarding the basic notes on color sanding. I will shoot a whole process when I am getting to that point on the Trooper I am working on.

maytag wrote:I have not had a chance yet to go watch all of the videos. I will. but do you at some point discuss color-sanding?

I've done a number of garage paint-jobs over the years, and I have gotten to where I can lay it down pretty well (nothing like you've got), But once that is done, the paint needs a final rub-down, right? isn't that what they call a color-sand?

Where did you get the "half moon" cheese grater you use on the putty?

Welding a nail to pull dents is excellent as is the technique of hitting your work with paint and sanding to find flaws. Now I have an understanding of what takes to get a decent paint job on a car. Really great videos!

any autobody/paint supply house will have the cheese graters. I never did use one much as i was too cheap to put that much bondo on the car.

Here is a link. http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merc ... _Code=TFSL

WYSpider wrote:Where did you get the "half moon" cheese grater you use on the putty?

do you have or plan on a video about putting new metal in... say like a quarter panel... my question is about fitting the new metal.. is the new a little bigger and does the new metal go on the outside or the inside of the hole that was created by the removal of rust... too big a spot to fill .. i have a wire feed welder.. little cheap one i picked up on craigslist.. my plan is to practice and then go for it... learning about stich welding and butt welding .. also overlapping... filling holes etc...i think that the but welding will be the hardest... i know on the floor pans my probably bird poop welds will be hidden but would love to see how someone tackles a rear quarter repair with new metal?????????????

on another note... your idea of going to a salvage yard and getting a bigger tank for more air to paint was brilliant... i actually found a set up with motor and a belt drive compressor ... gotta be at least a 60 gallon tank and 110 volts... paid scrap price for it a little over 60 bucks... plugged it in and so far it is all good.. putting out 30cfm all day with not a hiccup... looking foward to your color sanding videos... thanks... Matt

fiat124fl wrote: I would shoot the color and spray the clear over the top wet on wet.

I take it that this is in conjunction with what you said in the videos about applying the color thin, just "to cover"? Wet-on-wet meaning to not let the color completely dry prior to spraying clear coat?

Never having done this I would have thought you would apply the color, let it dry and sand (repeat) and apply clear. So this is great information. Thanks!

I am still not sure how much sanding to do on my Spider before primer. I am going from red to white. Not sure if these pics really show the paint condition well enough, but I have quite a few pics up at http://s1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... 20Day%201/ WOuld really appreciate your thoughts on that.

Also, you mentioned it best to use HLVP for the 4:1 primer and then I think you mentioned to use a sunction gun for color and clear? What to you look for in picking up a suction gun?

txSteve wrote:Also, you mentioned it best to use HLVP for the 4:1 primer and then I think you mentioned to use a sunction gun for color and clear? What to you look for in picking up a suction gun?

hlvp gun the paint cup is on top
the suction gun the tank is on the bottom

also the primer should be clean "sanded"smooth and flat"no deep scraches"
keep clean untill done wiped and then painted
dont touch the car without dusting your hands with powder from primer.this will cut the oil from skin absorbing into the primeer coat and dont sand thru.

Thanks all the tips i learned some new stuff just in time, I'm going to paint my spider with 2 stage paint.
Just wondering if you have used eastwood paints ? found them on evil bay a few hundred less then my
local paint stores sell a gallon for.

i am using 2 stage paint too,. a gal is 1200.00
my brother is the painter

This is a great thread. I am thinking of preping my car and then having someone paint, as I do not have a compressor. I have paintdamage and some, if not all, paint needs to be removed. I was planning on doing this myself. It could take me several weeks to complete the paint removal, do I need to worry about rust on the bare metal? If so, is there anything I can put on it until I can get it to the paint shop? Thanks.

a rust inhibitor
sold at most parts stores