Installing 32/36 Weber and New Intake on my 79

[Pescado]

Hey Nut,

Is this what you're describing

[Nut124]

Thanks nut...ya I've been contemplating if I should take the valve covers off again to have a look.

Used a cheap piston stop tool like this except I put some tape at the bottom to make it softer.

You are likely fine. Unless you have something mounted on top of the valve covers, removing them takes just seconds unless you glued them down.

[Nut124]

Hey Nut,

Is this what you're describing

Yes. See how both buckets are pressed down a bit by the cam lobes, about the same amount. This is the cam overlap at TDC.

[Nut124]

Hey Nut,

Is this what you're describing

Yes. See how both buckets are pressed down a bit by the cam lobes, about the same amount. This is the cam overlap at TDC.

The 10-12" is a total guess. The lobes should point down about 135deg from vertical, starting from 12noon.

Actually, more like 155 deg. 110 plus cam box deck angle, about 45. 110 being the approx recommended cam C/L.

[Nut124]

For what it is worth, I think I had the angle math wrong again above.

At TDC, the ex cam is approx 110/2 or 55 deg past full lift. The cam box deck is at about 45 deg. So the ex lobe at TDC is about 10 deg from vertical. The IN is the same on the opposite side.

[Pescado]

thanks Nut...I'll look into this before starting the engine for sure, doesn't hurt to have a look.

[Pescado]

Hey guys,

Put some antifreeze in yesterday and I have a leak...slow drops from behind the bottom of the intake manifold bolt closest to the grille...any thoughts?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

The bolt closest to the grille? You mean the bolt closest to the front of the engine? There is a water jacket on the intake manifolds, with coolant openings on the manifold (and cylinder head) at both ends and a larger one in the center. Sounds like your intake manifold gasket may not have sealed. Are all six bolts tight to 18 ft lbs? Your manifold flange wasn't warped by chance....?

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Yup front of engine...I did torque these and tighten them up more after the leak showed up and it did slow down. Whats the best procedure now...drain coolant, remove intake, check intake and try again.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I'm afraid that's the only option. The coolant passageways on the intake manifold can get pretty corroded over time. Take off the manifold, take it to a shop and see if they can inspect / smooth out the surface (or do it yourself), get a new intake manifold gasket, and try again. I'd inspect the cylinder head intake flange surface as well, and check all surfaces for warpage.

-Bryan

[Nut124]

Is it leaking w/o running the engine until hot?

If so, then it's a major leak. Like Bryan suggested, remove the intake. check surfaces for straighness within 1-2 thou. I'd get w new intage gasket and use silicone just around the coolant ports, on both sides of the gasket.

What spec did you torque the intake manifold stud nuts? I'd resist any temptation to fix this by retightening the intake bolts/nuts or the thread in the head will pull out.

[Pescado]

So looks like the leak has stopped...pretty sure we are ready to start the engine, Oh man! looking forward to this. Before turning the key I wanted to give you guys the rundown of what we have down to date. New single plane intake mani, new 32/36 weber carb, new starter, new pully's, new seals, new alternator, and new timing belt. I have set up the carb the following way...air mixture two turns out, idle speed one and a half in, checked the float and was only off by 1mm based on the 18mm to 23mm spec. I have new coolant and oil in the car and have turned the engine 720degrees with no issues. New plug wires and have the distributor set to #4 plus all marks on TDC....so can I turn the key or am I missing some check points?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I think you're good to go. On an engine first start-up, I remove the plugs, crank the starter until you see oil pressure on the gauge (or the idiot light goes out), put the plugs back in and fire that bad boy up.

Try to keep the engine speed at 2000 rpm or so (foot on the gas) for a while, and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge as it warms up since you might have an air pocket in the cooling system. Warm it up for a while, cool it back down, and recheck all bolts, oil and coolant level, timing and alternator belt tightness, etc.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Ok sounds good....should I be adjusting ignition timing before tuning the carb or do the carb first.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I would do the ignition timing first. Takes 10 minutes or less. Then get the idle speed and idle mixture correct, and then if you want, you can spend weeks fine tuning your main and air corrector jets on the carb. That last part is hard, and I usually just pick the jets so that the engine "feels right" as best as I can tell. Check your spark plug colors, and what you want is a light to medium grey or beige color.

-Bryan