> Does the top frame need to be removed?

Yes, as I believe it sandwiches between the top frame and the body.

So nice and open. On mine its also sandwiched between the wheel well and the rear mounts of the roll bar with 4 bolts going through to the outside.

Hmmmm...I'll take a closer look. If the top frame needs to come off can that be done with the canvas still attached?

On a different note, I'm still considering pulling the metal fuel lines and replacing them.
For the carbureted cars what type of lines should I be looking at as far as what they are made of? Eg copper or steel. What are the size of the two lines?

5/16 and 1/4. I used steel. Lots of fun bending them around the frame rail and over the axle.

Thanks Ari.

Was it 5/16" and 1/4" O.D coated brake line that you used?

I'm guessing this bender would work?

http://m.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

If I do replace the hard lines it may only be the portion that runs through the cabin and into the firewall. I will have a closer look at the section over the axle - I think those are fine though

Hello,
Nice car!!
I notice you have seats from a newer spider.
Do you know if you can interchange seats from a newer spider into a 1978?
Thanks all
Dan

Yes they are OD. My steel lines came with a coating of polyvinyl fluoride for rust protection. Your bender is similar to what i used. The line you are working on is straight forward. The one around the axle has twists in all sorts of directions. Don't forget to measure what you are replacing and flare the ends.

Thanks. Do you remember off hand where you got your lines from?
As for the flare where the rubber hose slips over, is it just a brake line type flare?

Any auto parts store.
Try to choose a flare which will accept a fuel hose easily, not sure of the names of the different kinds of flares. I made the mistake of using a flare that had an edge that made it difficult to wear a hose over it even if i coated it with dishwashing liquid (don't coat it with oil). How to explain... a smooth bubble flare is better than a restrictive edge.

Another option instead of trying to re-flare steel brake lines is to use adapters to go from the brake flare fitting to a standard hose barb style. I used Edelmann 824550 adapters on both ends of standard 5/16" brake lines. Edelmann 824450 adapters will work with 1/4" steel lines. Make sure you use high pressure fuel injection hose (should be marked as such) on any hoses from the fuel pump to the fuel rail itself.
Kirk

Chances are that you need a custom length. If you need to cut the line you cannot use the adapters, no? Great idea though in a perfect world.

Thanks, I'll look into more information on the adapters. klweimer, do you by chance have any photos of what you did regarding the adapters?

Ari, as far as the flared end goes I think you can use a bubble flare or a double flare if I'm not mistaken? I believe a single flare is prone to cracking at its edges and is too sharp for the rubber hose to fit over...like you said, I think a bubble flare would be easiest for the hose to pass over.

Frankd1,
Sorry for the slow response to your request for pictures, I had to go take a couple. This is what the adapters look like on the brake lines. I gave up a long time ago trying to make bubble flares or any other brake line flare that I would trust my life to, Just putting a single flare on the end of a tube could eventually cut though your gas hose, not a good idea.

[img][IMG]http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s665/kweimer303/4d561ab9-5ba5-4430-b67b-cf376d46d3c5_zps1imvyyli.jpg[/img]/img]

[img][IMG]http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s665/kweimer303/8bdc43e1-34e4-452b-aee9-8b88a456b86a_zpsz04yg0qs.jpg[/img]/img]

[img][IMG]http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s665/kweimer303/e03c2cea-cce7-4b0a-9161-be01fbfc17cf_zpsupwfvabd.jpg[/img]/img]

Kirk

Once more with feeling...

Now that is slick! Thanks for the photos!