Page 4 of 13
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:33 pm
by MrJD
Did some test welds tonight to see how the metal responds and how far back I need to brush the rubber undercoat to keep it from catching fire.
Turns out, I need to take it back LOTS farther, lol. I put out many -a- undercoat fire tonight!
when the floors are done, its going to be smooth sailing from then on out.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:38 pm
by juvius
looking good....
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:37 am
by fredguaz
Mrjd, thanks for posting this blog. I will be doing the same type repairs to my floor having recently purchased a MIG welder. One of my seat rails needs replaced outright and another I am going to try to repair.
I also have to patch underneath a good rail like you as well as minor patching on my rear valance.
Are you doing an overlap patch or are you butt welding ? Also, are you using 18 ga. sheet metal?
Thanks.
Oh, I'm in NC too, Lake Norman area.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:50 am
by MrJD
I believe what I am using is 16g (its what they stock at lowes). All will be butted together. I've not yet decided how I am going to treat it, but I think I will weld the top surface, and then scuff, POR15, and undercoat (bottom) and truckbedliner(the top).
My aim is to use truck bedliner to basically make the interior a "tub." I have yet to decide if I am going to totally weld up every hole (many are factory) in the floor... but I might just use panel seal to fill every hole.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:40 am
by vandor
POR-15 does not seem to adhere well to non-rusty metal.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:14 am
by 4uall
I strongly agree with Csaba
I used the POR15 process. It helps in prepping all metal first for the best adheasiveness
Before some rust some clean metal
After
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:33 am
by BEEK
use masonite not plywood for your door pannels
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:41 pm
by MrJD
BEEK wrote:use masonite not plywood for your door pannels
Been thinking about this lately.
I want to use whatever I can find at lowes... being that I get a sweet deal there. Any wood based product will warp over time when exposed to water... so I am VERY tempted to use plexiglass backing. It will be stronger, less likely to warp, and will have no response to water or humidity.
I have not fully decided about POR15 or others yet... but I KNOW i will be going through several cans of this on all internal surfaces that are not terribly accessible.
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... ozzle.html
I'll even be drilling holes into the fender flares on the back and filling them with the stuff. I'm taking no prisoners with the rust.
Also, I want a spoke rim look. unfortunately, 4x98 is terrible for aftermarket wheels... SO! I am going to get adapters to use 4x100 lug pattern. I think I might go with these adapters... price is right
http://adaptitusa.com/4x98to4x100wheeladapter.aspx
The wheels I want are Enkei 92's at 15 x7 38 offset.
With the 1" adapter, that will make the offset Perfect for the car.
Tax season is upon us... might be happening sooner rather than later!
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:22 pm
by azruss
using plastic sheeting (I wouldnt use plexiglas....too brittle) has one drawback, heat expansion. If you pin it down tight, it will warp in the heat between the tie down spots.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:50 pm
by MrJD
I bet i could use that masonite, and coat the whole thing in the rustoleum neverwet... hrm... i wonder if glue would still stick to it though? :\
There has to be a better material. Surely heat expansion wouldn't be that big of an issue.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:28 pm
by vandor
Why do you need glue? I think the vinyl is stapled to the board.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:44 pm
by MrJD
vandor wrote:Why do you need glue? I think the vinyl is stapled to the board.
Just staples? Well that is interesting. I'll comment more when the time comes. I'll document the whole process.
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:41 pm
by MrJD
Got my single plane manifold and 32adfa in from Juvius (thanks!). Now to decide if I am going to use the 32 or not... Decisions decisions.
Do you think My Radiator is ok? It has what appears to be copper corrosion on the outside. No leaks... but it looks nasty for sure.
Check out this sweet brazed repair i found on the back (it had become a rust spot amazingly, lol)
Now for the big question. Watch this video and let me know what you're thinking. I have been advised to get the car back on the road and drive it around a bit... and see if the problem persists... that is, being that the car sat around for a long time before I bought it. I'd not be asking, but I noticed one of the fiat vendors has brake rebuild kits on sale currently.
Vid:
http://youtu.be/P2SSdKyT05c
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:32 pm
by 4uall
Re: 1979 spider 2000 restoration
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:51 pm
by MrJD
got my 2nd good tail light in today!
Going to heat up the little rubber surrounds and get them on later so they form to the lights better.
Bought some sweet vintage luggage that matches my interior!
more floor work
found more issues to take care of also...
got the carpet for the trunk cleaned up nicely.
need to pull the tank so I can get to work on the drivers side
2 sheets at 5mm thick and HUGE. if you look close, you can see a new trunk floor and two new door panels in there! (cost me $15 and was available locally.)