I found Kevlar Brake pads for the spider but never used Kevlar has
any one try this type of pad ?
Dan
124 Spider Brake Upgrades
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Joe Clemente
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:35 am
- Location: Vancouver, B.C. CANADA
Are they a street compound? That is critical.
Be careful NOT to use race compounds on the street. Carbon kevlar pads are generally used in race applications and they require a consistent high operating temperatures in order to go adherent, meaning to properly apply the transfer layer on to the rotor. If you run them cold as would be the case on the street they will be harshly abrasive and destroy your rotors in short order. I learned that the hard way long ago, stupidly thinking that pads good enough for the track must clearly be good for the street. Threw some good money away there...
There are companies offering Kevlar for the street that work at lower and inconsistent temps but you still need to be careful to bed them correctly. What does the manufacturer, (not the vendor) say about these pads you've found, Dan?
The other thing you'll want to be careful with is using those drilled rotors of yours. Unless they have been properly radiused, the first hard use may cause stress risers and cracking which will then eat up the pads and soften your pedal badly.
Be careful NOT to use race compounds on the street. Carbon kevlar pads are generally used in race applications and they require a consistent high operating temperatures in order to go adherent, meaning to properly apply the transfer layer on to the rotor. If you run them cold as would be the case on the street they will be harshly abrasive and destroy your rotors in short order. I learned that the hard way long ago, stupidly thinking that pads good enough for the track must clearly be good for the street. Threw some good money away there...
There are companies offering Kevlar for the street that work at lower and inconsistent temps but you still need to be careful to bed them correctly. What does the manufacturer, (not the vendor) say about these pads you've found, Dan?
The other thing you'll want to be careful with is using those drilled rotors of yours. Unless they have been properly radiused, the first hard use may cause stress risers and cracking which will then eat up the pads and soften your pedal badly.
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bandit
Yaa the race compound i am aware of not working till warm but the Kevlar
I've seen for street cars but never try'd them the company has them for
street use but who knows how they really work ?
My rotors are pretty good ones heres a photos
I have Braided lines ordered from Mark and now i need some rebuilt
or new caps. and a 124 master to replace my 131 master .
Dan
I've seen for street cars but never try'd them the company has them for
street use but who knows how they really work ?
My rotors are pretty good ones heres a photos
I have Braided lines ordered from Mark and now i need some rebuilt
or new caps. and a 124 master to replace my 131 master .
Dan
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Joe Clemente
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:35 am
- Location: Vancouver, B.C. CANADA
Dan,bandit wrote:Yaa the race compound i am aware of not working till warm but the Kevlar
I've seen for street cars but never try'd them the company has them for
street use but who knows how they really work ?
Dan
I'm tellin ya how they work...
First of all, for race pads it's not enough to just get them "warm". Temps have to be way up and consistent to order to get race compounds to work properly. Typically, race compounds get adherent anywhere between 500°F-1500°F. As hard as you may drive on the street, it isn't likely you'll generate that kind of heat to make them work. Instead, as I mentioned earlier, the race pads in your street brakes will just grind themselves and your shiny new rotors away through sheer abrasion. On the street, realistically you may like see between 100°F and maybe 500°F max. So if the manufacturer offers a good street compound, the pads should have a standard operating range consistent with these temps. Aside from the significant amount of dust that they'll create, you'll probably find that the street compound will be great. Just be careful what you buy and follow the manufacturer's guidelines for bedding them in. Really important.
Looks like those rotors have been cad plated and have the necessary radiusing on the drilled holes. It'll certainly help but it's no guarantee against cracking. Pay close attention to them.
Good luck
J.
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bandit
Yup
I know about breaking in for the first few hundred miles I
plan on going easy on the car any ways every thing will be
fresh all new every thing .
I just wanted Brakes that are some where in the middle
on the performance level like i said before never try'd to
make some thing streetable and race at the same time it's
all ways been one or the other ...
Tom
I bought the rotors from a Dist. back east they run $90 a pair .
same rotors fit front and rear 124's and 131s front . I might
do my 124 as well if i like this brake setup .
I really want to see how my car handles with the Front and rear
sway bars Poli Bushing on front and rubber in the rear .
now i just need to purchase some Koni's for the rear and i am
done . I dont like the ride with KYB's in the rear and konis front
feels odd . My last Brava Had KYBs front n rear handled well
after lowering it no other mods .
Dan
I know about breaking in for the first few hundred miles I
plan on going easy on the car any ways every thing will be
fresh all new every thing .
I just wanted Brakes that are some where in the middle
on the performance level like i said before never try'd to
make some thing streetable and race at the same time it's
all ways been one or the other ...
Tom
I bought the rotors from a Dist. back east they run $90 a pair .
same rotors fit front and rear 124's and 131s front . I might
do my 124 as well if i like this brake setup .
I really want to see how my car handles with the Front and rear
sway bars Poli Bushing on front and rubber in the rear .
now i just need to purchase some Koni's for the rear and i am
done . I dont like the ride with KYB's in the rear and konis front
feels odd . My last Brava Had KYBs front n rear handled well
after lowering it no other mods .
Dan
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fiatS2000
Has anybody ever tried to make the brake system from a Maserati Biturbo work on a Fiat Spider? The Maserati has solid 4x98mm rotors and four piston calipers.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2075327
If the front rotors are too big, maybe the rear setup could be used on the front of a spider. The rear of a biturbo uses a two piston caliper without an emergency brake. It has a separate brake shoe for the emergency brake inside the rotor.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2075327
If the front rotors are too big, maybe the rear setup could be used on the front of a spider. The rear of a biturbo uses a two piston caliper without an emergency brake. It has a separate brake shoe for the emergency brake inside the rotor.
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bandit
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fiatS2000
After searching online for hrs, i finally found the actual size of the rotors.
front brake rotor size = 279 mm / 11.0 in
rear brake rotor size = 274 mm / 10.8 in
Yes Dan, that's kinda what I'm getting at. I will be aquiring these parts this coming weekend and going to try to figure a way to make them work on my '68. But that means that I will need to keep the 16" rims that I have on the coupe.
I also got the 36DCNVH Weber carb that was on that Maserati and I will be using that on my turbocharged Fiat owered dune buggy that I am working on.
Another part that i will also try to adapt to the fiat is the maserati electronic ignition. It uses the same distributor pick up and ignition module as the later spiders. The coil and the heat sink are different, but I'm going to see if they work. just to be different.
I also got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator of the car that will work perfect with dual carbs.
front brake rotor size = 279 mm / 11.0 in
rear brake rotor size = 274 mm / 10.8 in
Yes Dan, that's kinda what I'm getting at. I will be aquiring these parts this coming weekend and going to try to figure a way to make them work on my '68. But that means that I will need to keep the 16" rims that I have on the coupe.
I also got the 36DCNVH Weber carb that was on that Maserati and I will be using that on my turbocharged Fiat owered dune buggy that I am working on.
Another part that i will also try to adapt to the fiat is the maserati electronic ignition. It uses the same distributor pick up and ignition module as the later spiders. The coil and the heat sink are different, but I'm going to see if they work. just to be different.
I also got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator of the car that will work perfect with dual carbs.
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So Cal Mark
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pastaroni
the parts are pretty pricey to replace.. plus the caliper bodies are made of steel and are super heavy. you might be on to a little something with the rotors but remember they are supposed to center themselves on the wheel hub. Chances are slim that the biturbo rotors will do so, and you'll have to make centering rings and such. I don't want to be the one to shoot down people's hopes but I don't want people to shoot themselves off the road either.
-Jason
-Jason
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bandit
